Balanced Water Chemistry - To maximize the life of your
salt cell, you’ll need to maintain proper water chemistry. The critical components of healthy water chemistry are
Chlorine,
pH,
Total Alkalinity (TA,)
Cyanuric Acid (CYA or Stabilizer,)
Calcium Hardness (CH,) and
Salt. The image on this step provides the ideal ranges these categories should be maintained within.
For example, suppose your pool is high in calcium. In that case, the salt cell will become caked with scale (calcium buildup, which restricts flow over the plates and prevents the electrolysis chemical reaction from happening. Water with too high of pH or alkalinity will also lead to excess scale buildup and staining to the pool surface. And low CYA levels lead to rapid chlorine burn-off because there isn’t enough “stabilizer” to protect chlorine from UV rays hence why cyanuric acid is commonly referred to as sunblock for your pool.
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Harland Posted: 11/11/2020
No none of the lights are onReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 11/12/2020
You will need to replace your AquaTrol's main PCB. Do you have the RJ or HP model?Reply
Harland Posted: 11/9/2020
No, the "no flow" light comes on and cycles off. The generating light never comes on any more. if I switch to Super Chlorinate it and the power light come on for maybe 15-20 seconds then both go out.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 11/16/2020
Have you tried cleaning your filter or replacing the flow sensor?Reply
Steven Posted: 11/4/2020
My board is saying "cell temp sensor short circuit" and "chlorinator off sensor fault." Do I have to replace the cell, or can I replace the sensor, and where is the sensor?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 11/4/2020
What is the model number or the make and model of your salt system? We need the model info to figure out what kind of diagnostic process to follow.Reply
Steven Posted: 11/5/2020
And I have T15 Simple Cell from Optimum Pool Technologies. I believe the sensor is inaccessible in the cell.Reply
Steven Posted: 11/5/2020
I have a Hayward Aqua Logic. The only model number I could find is AQL-XX-XX.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 11/10/2020
The part you need is the Goldline / AquaLogic Temperature Sensor Kit w/ 15ft Leads - GLXPC12KIT; it is replaceable. You should be able to follow the sensor cord from the control box to where the sensor is installed.Reply
Scott Posted: 10/12/2020
Will the cell have current if salt levels are low ? I have voltage but no amps but it is disabled for low salt.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/19/2020
If you know you have low salt, use a salt test kit or have it tested at a pool store, then add the salt if needed. Your low salt light being on could be a symptom of other problems.Reply
Edward Posted: 9/27/2020
Hi, i have this Hayward salt display for 4 yrs. now. I cant keep the salt ppm up for some reason. I added salt a few days ago and it stated 3100 ppm. A week later its showing 2700ppm. What could be wrong?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/27/2020
Have you been backwashing more than usual, or has there been heavy rain recently?Reply
Ottawa help Posted: 9/7/2020
We have a Hayward Aquarite - replaced the front board bc it was poor display. Cell is clean. It won’t show any lights except the power light. It won’t trigger generate or super chlorinate. Display shows 0.00/28/32.2/0.00/16P/-0.00/AL-1/R1.59/t-5. I can change the t-cell to a t15 on the display. Can someone tell me if the problem is the main board or the T cell? It won’t let me recalibrate salt level. It doesn’t recognize even that there is no flow.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/8/2020
If I am reading the jumble of numbers correctly, 32.2 is the cell voltage, and 0.00 is the amperage. Am I correct?What cell do you have, the TCELL5 or the TCELL15? And you need to make sure whichever cell you have is selected in the settings menu. If the correct cell is not chosen, switch it to the proper cell, then give me the cell voltage and cell amperage.Reply
Ottawa help Posted: 9/13/2020
We have a T15 Cell. Those are the numbers with the correct cell inputted. There is zero amperage, you are correctReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/23/2020
If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.Reply
Hugo Posted: 9/4/2020
Hope That you at least give me a clue. Have a Pentair IntelliChlor IC20 and is not lighting at all. I gave it a clean with the right Acid proportion but notice the fuse was blown. I replace the fuse again and it blow on more time. What would be the issue or solution. This Unit is 8n years old.. If I where to replace it bdo I have to replace the unit on the wall also. or just the Intell. Please advise me. Yhank You So Much.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/8/2020
The first place I would check is the circuit providing power to the power supply. That fuse is popping because there is too much current at the panel. Have you checked the voltage and amp of the lines feeding the Intellichlor's power supply?Reply
Abbey Posted: 9/1/2020
I have a swim pure plus that is acting strange. The only light that is on is the power light, continuously, and the salt reading is stuck at 3200. It will not do anything else. No diagnostics, just 3200. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thank youReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/3/2020
I suspect the main PCB is not working. You can try to check the internal fuse on the unit, to see if that has popped. But more than likely your main PCB needs to be replaced.Reply
Ottawahelp Posted: 9/7/2020
I have this problem too that the power light is on but no other lights. It won’t read any salt level (0.00) and can’t be re-calibrated. Is that the T cell or the main power board?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/8/2020
The problem could be the fuse or the current limiter on the mainboard. Both are relatively cheap to fix. What is the make and model of the unit?Reply
Bill Posted: 8/29/2020
My Aqua Rite T-15 chlorine generator is short cycling the power light comes on, the generating light comes on, you hear a click as it starts to generate chlorine and then the power and generator light both go off at the same time, 10 to 15 seconds later they both come back on and the same thing then happens again over and over.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/1/2020
I think our issue may be a bad current limiter. The current limiter is a little electronic circuit piece on the mainboard that tends to fail on these AquaRites. We do not have a guide or video on replacing the Aquarite current limiter just ety, but there are a few youtube videos that cover it. Here is an example: How to Repair Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite Pool Chlorine GeneratorsReply
Bill Posted: 9/2/2020
Thank you it solved the problem.Reply
Frank Posted: 6/10/2020
Display reading says "hot" what does this mean?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/23/2020
The "hot" reading usually means the cell is reading the water is too hot for the cell to operate. The range of what "too hot' varies according to the model of salt cell. But if we take the AquaRite as an example, HOT means the water is above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. If you check your diagnostics menu and the cell temp reads 215 degrees F, the cell's temperature sensor has shorted, and you need to replace the cell.Reply
Bob B Posted: 4/23/2020
I have a 13,500 gal pool with Aqua Logic AQL-PS-8 control panel and T-Cell-15 generator.. My cell "died" ( or so I thought at the end of last season), so I replaced it today, and the failure mode continues. I am getting "Very Low Salt" readout on the Default menu page --same as before with the previous generator -- and on the Diagnostics menu, voltage reads 30 to 31 volts, amps reads zero, and salt ppm reads 0000. (I have added 320 lbs of salt over last three days--starting from near zero, so I know there's salt in the water!). If this is a mother board issue, is it repairable (I have fixed the "No Cell Power) problem several years ago by re-soldering a connection Thanks!Reply
Patrick Posted: 7/12/2020
Hi Bob. I have the same problem. Before replacing anything, I was wondering if you fixed your problem and how. I'm reluctant to change the cell. And if it's a motherboard issue, i'm wondering if it cannot be fixed as i did in the past by replacing a compensator (soldering)..ThanksReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/10/2020
You can always try the soldering the current limiter route before you do the complete cell change out. You can also make sure that the correct cell type is selected in your setting. And as mentioned to Bob, you can also check the voltage and amperage in the diagnostics menu to see if the cell is malfunctioning. How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational ValuesReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/24/2020
If the salt cell amps reading show zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.Reply
C.Price Posted: 4/13/2020
Hi, replaced salt cell recently. However the power and generating light are lit but every few minutes there’s a clicking sound.. I don’t get any instant salt readings nor am I getting an amp reading. Any suggestions?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/15/2020
What is the make and model of your salt system?Reply
Staley Posted: 9/21/2019
We have the hayward t-15 cell on our pool for the last 10 months or so. It's worked great until a recent series of ill timed events resulted in a really high spike in ph. The ph was high for an unknown amount of time, but up to about 3 weeks. We've got the ph down to normal levels and all the other levels back to a normal range. Salt is just a little high right now, but the salt cell now says low salt. We've gone through the cleaning process, and when you first turn it on the real time salt reading goes straight to the salt level the local pool store says we have. Then over the course of 20 seconds it drops down to the 2500 range and turns itself off due to low salt. Did I roast the salt cell, or should I just re-calibrate?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 9/26/2019
I would recommend recalibrating the salt level first. Check out our guide titled "How to Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aquarite".Reply
Barbara L Hornacek Posted: 7/22/2019
I've cleaned the T-15 cell and it looks good. salt level is 3600 but display reading says 1900, salt light and inspect cell light are on. amp reading is 0.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 7/22/2019
If the amps readings shows zero (0), then you should replace your PC Board.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 3/31/2020
How do you check ampsReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/1/2020
if you press the diagnostic button three times, the value displayed should be the cell amperage. The guide to AquaRite's diagnostic display can be found here: How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational ValuesReply