How to Replace a Pool System DE filter with a Cartridge Filter

PURCHASE PARTS - Here is a list of the parts you may need when replacing a pool filter. Quantities and types may vary with you particular configuration: 90º elbows, straight pipe, straight connectors, T-connector, Ball valve. These will be 1/2' or 2" fittings depending on your existing pipe.

COLLECT TOOLS - You will need the following tools to replace this filter: a hacksaw, primer and cement, Sharpie pen, tape measure, file, and plumber's tape.

TURN OFF PUMP - Always turn your pump off at the pump circuit breaker before working on the pump or filter..

RELIEVE PRESSURE - Release system pressure by opening up the relief valve on top of the old filter.

DRAIN TANK - You will want to drain the old filter tank before you move it. Most filters have a drain plug at the bootm of the tank. The insert in this picture shows screwing this drain plug off using a screwdriver as a lever.

DETERMINE CUT OUT POINTS - We've put red "Xs" on the equipment that we will take out with the old filter including: the DE filter, the side mounted multiport valve, the waste line off the multiport valve and the chlorinator. Note: this chlorinator has been installed in the wrong location. It should have been installed as the last piece of equipment on the return line. We are removing this chlorinator because we recently converted this system to a salt chlorine generation pool. If your pool still uses a chlorinator, you might what to save this chlorinator and reinstall it in the proper location. The two red bars show the two places where we will cut the pipes to pull out all this old equipment.

CUT PUMP CONNECTION - Our first cut is on the water discharge pipe coming out of the top of the pump. We cut this pipe just under the elbow to save as much of the discharge pipe for any future connections.

CUT FILTER EXIT CONNECTION - The other cut is the on the pipe going to the spa or pool diverter valve.

PLACE CARTRIDGE FILTER - Remove the old filter and attachments and place the new filter in its approximate location.

IDENTIFY IN AND OUT PORTS - Rotate the filter so that the filter inlet and outlet ports are oriented for best hookup. The ports should be labeled.

ATTACH "T" FITTING FOR WASTE LINE - Because you no longer have a multiport valve with a built-in waste port, you should provide for a waste line for draining your pool. One way to do this is to put a "T" connector off the filter outlet and to add a Ball valve off one side of the "T". Opening this Ball valve will divert water to a waste line. This guide does not cover how to glue fittings together. For more information on this subject see our guide on "How To Replace a Pool Pump With An Energy Efficient Pool Pump" starting with Step 18.

CONNECT "OUT" FILTER PORT TO DIVERTER VALVE - The other side of the "T" connector should be piped to the spa/pool diverter valve where we made out second cut.

CONNECT PUMP TO FILTER "IN" PORT - Connect the inlet port of the filter to the discharge pipe on the pump - where we made the first cut.

WAIT TWO HOURS - The drying time on your pipe connection is 2 hours.

TURN PUMP ON - Turn the pump on at the circuit breaker.

RELIEVE AIR PRESSURE - Open up the relief valve on top of the filter to relieve trap air in the system. Close this valve when water start to spray out.

CHECK PRESSURE GAUGE - After the pump has primed, check the pressure gauge on top of the filter. It should normally read between 10 and 15 psi. Note; If the pressure gauge leaks around the base as this one did, unscrew the gauge and wrap the threads 3-4 times with plumbers tape.

SET PRESSURE GAUGE - Some gauges like this one have a dial to indicate the psi where the filter should be cleaned. Rotate this dial so that the start arrow is on the current psi reading - about 12 in this case. When the psi reading reaches 22, it's time to clean the filter.

CHECK OTHER EQUIPMENT - Check any other equipment on your system for confirmation that your system is operation correctly. This system has an Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generator. If the pump/filter was not providing sufficient flow, the "No Flow" LED would light up and you would have to recheck your installation. This SCG display shows green lights for "Power" and "Generating" (chlorine) so we know the pump and filter are operating correctly.

CHECK CONNECTIONS FOR LEAKS - As a last check, wipe each of the new connections with a dry cloth and check them for leaks.