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How To Replace a Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro Pump Impeller

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A pump has two major sections: the wet end which holds the water and the motor which dives the pump's impeller to move the water. Generally these two sections are either bolted together (like most Hayward pumps) or clamped together (like most Sta-Rite pumps). This guide shows you how to replace the impeller in a pump that is clamped together. For instructions on changing an impeller in a pump that is bolted together, see our guide on "How To Replace A Pool Pump Impeller".

Click here to view Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro impellers. (key 10)



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Steps

Things You'll Need

GO-KITS / Tune Up Kits

Pool Pump Impellers

Step by Step

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Step 1

INTRO TO HOW AN IMPELLER WORKS - For a quick introduction, this picture shows the operation of the impeller. Water enters the center of the impeller. As the impeller is spun by the motor, a series of blades, like a fan, pushes the water to the outside edges of the impeller where it exits through slots to be collected by the diffuser. For an expanded explanation of how a pump operates click How A Pool Pump Works.

Step 2

TURN POWER OFF - The first step in preparing to remove your pump's impeller is to turn off all power to the motor. For maximum safety turn off the power at the circuit breaker to the motor - usually located next to the timer box.

Step 3

RELIEVE PRESSURE - Next you will have to relieve the pressure that builds up in the pump during operation. To relieve pressure turn the relief valve on top of the filter counter clockwise. Water will spray out initially as you see the pressure on the pressure gauge go to 0 psi.

Step 4

UNSCREW CLAMP - Unscrew the knob on the pump clamp in a counter-clockwise direction to separate the ends of the clamp.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro clamp assembly. (key 9) 

Step 5

REMOVE CLAMP - Slide the clamp off of the collars that join the pump sections together.

Step 6

SEPARATE SECTIONS - Rotate the motor section of the pump down and out of the pump wet end.

Step 7

NOTE POSITIONING - As you are taking the motor section out, note how it is positioned relative to the wet end. When you put these sections back together, the tab in the motor section will be inserted into the slot on the wet end.

Click here to view Sta-Rite Max E Pro parts. 

Step 8

INSPECT DIFFUSER O-RING - Inspect the O-ring on the Diffuser to make sure it is tight and has no breaks of cracks. Replace is required.

Step 9

INSPECT CLAMP O-RING - Inspect the O-ring in the groove of the wet end. Replace if required.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro GOKIT. 

Step 10

UNSCREW DIFFUSER - Remove the 5 screws that secure the Diffuser to the motor Seal Plate - turn counter-clockwise.

Click here to view Sta-Rite Max E Pro diffusers. (key 11)

Step 11

NOTE POSITIONING - As you are removing the Diffuser, note how it is positioned relative to the wet end. When you put the Diffuser back onto the Seal Plate, the slot on the Diffuser will engage with the tab on the Seal Plate.

Step 12

LIFT OFF DIFFUSER - With the screws removed, lift the Diffuser off of the top of the Seal Plate.

Step 13

UNSCREW ELECTRICAL COVER - Go to the back of the motor and remove the two screws that secure the Electrical Cover.

Click here to view Sta-Rite Max E Pro parts. 

Step 14

REMOVE COVER - Remove the Electrical Cover to expose the electrical circuits of the motor.

Step 15

SECURE MOTOR SHAFT - Slip a flat open ended wrench under the wiring until it engages with the flatted sides of the motor shaft underneath the Governor.

Step 16

REMOVE IMPELLER SCREW - Go to the other end of the motor and remove the Impeller Screw. NOTE: THIS IS A LEFT HANDED THREADED SCREW. Turn it CLOCKWISE to loosen it. If you turn it counter-clockwise like most screws, you will break the screw.

Please click here to view the Sta-Rite Mx E Pro impeller screw. (key 10B)

Step 17

CHECK IMPELLER SCREW O-RING - Check the small O-ring at the base of the Impeller Screw. Replace if damaged.

Click here to view the Sta Rite Max E Pro impeller screw o ring. 

Step 18

TWIST OFF IMPELLER - With the flat wrench in place to keep the motor shaft from rotating, unscrew the Impeller from the motor shaft by hand. Turn the Impeller counter-clockwise. If the Impeller is stuck on the shaft, use a strap wrench to free it. Do not use an adjustable wrench.

Click here to view Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro impellers. (key 10)

Step 19

VIEW SHAFT SEAL SECTIONS - This picture shows you the location of the two pieces of the shaft seal. One is on the Impeller Shaft and one is in the Seal Plate.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro shaft seals. (key 7)

Step 20

REMOVE SHAFT SEAL FROM IMPELLER - Twist the Impeller Shaft Seal half off the shaft of the Impeller. This should come off without much effort. Note that the spring end of the seal was placed next to the Impeller.

Step 21

UNBOLT SEAL PLATE - To get to the other half of the Shaft Seal, you will have to remove the Seal Plate from the Motor. Unbolt the four bolts that secure the Seal Plate to the Motor.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro seal plate. 

Step 22

SEPARATE SEAL PLATE FROM MOTOR - With the bolts removed, lift the Motor off of the Seal Plate. Note the position of the Seal Plate to the Motor. The top of the Motor will line up with the flange part at the top of the Seal Plate.

Step 23

PUNCH OUT SEAL - With the other side of the Seal Plate open, you can now use a small screw driver to punch out the other half of the Shaft Seal. The Seal should come out easily.

Step 24

VIEW SHAFT SEAL SECTIONS - This is a picture of the two halves of the Seal once they are removed. When you put the new ones in, the white ceramic end of the one should make contact with the black ceramic end of the other.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro shaft seals. (key 7)

Step 25

SLIDE SHAFT SEAL ON IMPELLER - Twist the black ceramic Seal section onto the Impeller shaft. Make sure the spring end is towards the Impeller

Step 26

INSERT SHAFT SEAL INTO SEAL PLATE - Push the other half of the Seal into the Seal Plate. Make sure it is pushed all the way into the well. You might use the handle end of a screwdriver to help push it all the way in.

Step 27

WIPE SEAL SURFACES - Wipe the ceramic surfaces (black and white) with a clean cloth to remove any dirt or oil from your fingertips.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro shaft seals. (key 7)

Step 28

REATTACH SEAL PLATE - Bolt the motor back onto the Seal Plate. Remember to line up the top of the motor with the flange of the Seal Plate.

Step 29

TWIST ON IMPELLER - Twist the Impeller back onto the Motor Shaft with a clockwise motion.

Step 30

REPLACE ELECTRICAL COVER - Replace the Electrical Cover on the other end of the motor and secure it with the two screws.

Click here to view Sta-Rite Max E Pro parts. 


Step 31

SCREW ON DIFFUSER - Secure the Diffuser onto the Seal Plate with the five screws. Line up the slots on the Diffuser with the black tab on the Seal Plate as shown.

Step 32

INSERT MOTOR INTO WET END - Place the motor onto the supporting bracket and push it into the Wet End. Make sure the tab on the Seal Plate lines up with the slot in the Wet End.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro wet end. 

Step 33

SECURE CLAMP - Make sure the Wet End and Motor are pushed together. Then slide the Clamp over the joint between the two and secure it by tightening the Clamp Knob. Turn clockwise. To make sure the Clamp seats properly, tap around it occasionally with a rubber mallet as you are tightening the knob.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro clamp assembly. (key 9) 

Step 34

REMOVE STRAINER COVER - Remove the strainer cover from the top of the pump by twisting it in a counter-clockwise direction.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro strainer cover. 

Step 35

PRIME PUMP - Prime the pump with water from a garden hose. Note: the pump has been removed from its piping. Assume that the input and discharge ports have been reconnected to the system piping.


Step 36

REPLACE COVER - Check the Strainer Cover O-ring and replace it if necessary. Lubricate the O-ring and replace the strainer cover from the top of the pump by twisting it in a clockwise direction.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro GOKIT. 

Click here to view Magic Lube O-ring Lubricant. 

Step 37

TURN ON POWER - Reset circuit breakers and start pump.

Step 38

CLOSE RELIEF VALVE - Close the relief valve on top of the filter, after the air is purged and water starts to spray out of the valve.

Step 39

CHECK FOR LEAKS - Check for leaks around all the O-rings and gaskets you changed in this procedure to make sure the connections are tight enough.

Click here to view the Sta-Rite Max E Pro GOKIT. 

Click here to view Magic Lube O-ring Lubricant. 


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(1 to 22 of 22)

 Posted: 11/8/2021 

I need some guidance on finishing a shaft seal bearing replacement. I have performed all the steps in this process, but am having an issue getting the seal plate to make a water tight seal with the tank body. I have replaced that seal plate o-ring that came with my kit and I have tapped the V-clamp band into position all the way around the connnection. I have tightened the clamp as tight as I can get it (< 3/8" between the band ends). I think I have tightened it as tight as I can, but it's still leaking when running. It's almost as if the o-ring is too small and not getting compressed between the 2 sides. I have verified that the o-ring channel on the seal plate is clean and the tank body side does not have any defects. I will also let you know that this pump has been in service for ~9 years and the reason I did the bearing replacement was because the unit was leaking between the 2 plates. Do the v-clamps lose their rigidity after years of use? Any guidance would be appreciated. Dan
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/15/2021 

The seal plate could be warped, which means the seal won't happen no matter how much you tighten it. It's not a common occurrence, but it happens. Does the leak only happen while the pump is running with water pressure?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/2/2021 

This is one hell of a good write up. Thanks.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/5/2021 

Thanks! I'll pass your comment onto the writer, it'll brighten his day.
 Reply

 Posted: 12/5/2019 

pump makes very loud noisy, spa drain was clogged with leaves, cleaned and still screeching noise. what do I need to do ?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/9/2019 

If the motor is making a screeching or grinding noise, then bearings are the likely cause. We have a guide on replacing bad bearings, or you can replace the whole motor.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/8/2019 

There appears to be a plastic plug covering impeller screw. Looks like I would have to destroy it to get to scew. Am I in the ball park
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/8/2019 

That is not a plastic plug, it is the head of the impeller screw. Use a socket wrench to unscrew it.
 Reply

 Posted: 12/3/2018 

is it typical for for there to be a dab of sealant over the impeller screw? also my pump had sealant over the o-ring on the wet end. when i reassemble the pump do I need use some sort of sealant and what kind? Thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 12/3/2018 

Hello Sam - It is not common for a layer of sealant covering the impeller screw. If your pump has been serviced or repaired before, the previous technician may have added it. As for the reassembling of the pump, yes you should apply a dose of Teflon o-ring lube to each of the pump's seals, except for the shaft seal.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/18/2018 

Hello Vic - as step 18 shows, the impeller is turned counter-clockwise to remove it from the motor shaft.
 Reply

 Posted: 9/15/2018 

My Max-E-Pro pump does not have an impellor nut. So, is the impellor right or left hand threaded?
 Reply

 Posted: 3/30/2019 

I have the same type pump and the thread it clockwise. I wish someone would advise me the torque that needs to be applied to the impeller to ensure it staying tight during operation. Is Loctite recommended?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/1/2019 

Hello John - The impeller only needs to be hand-tightened because the spinning of the motor keeps it locked in place.  Do not use adhesives on your impeller.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/16/2018 

Hello rasosunshine - Try reinstalling the housing gasket with more lubricant. As you tighten the clamp, tap around the edge with a rubber mallet. This will ensure that you're getting a good seal.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 7/29/2018 

I just bought a new impeller and seal plate, but when I attach the band and put together it leaks water from the bottom. I have a new pump all new gaskets and mechanical seal, just can't figure out why it leaks.
 Reply

 Posted: 10/29/2019 

I have leak at bottom of seal plate after replacing all seals
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/29/2019 

The next step would be to disassemble to make sure the gaskets are installed correctly, and not pinched. You should also make sure the clamp is completely closed.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 1/24/2017 

Sam - Thank you for your comment. You are correct. We need to add a step after Step 29 to replace the Impeller Screw. We did check the Impeller Screw O-ring up in step 17.
 Reply

 Posted: 1/19/2017 

This is missing one step - after Step 29, you need to inspect the impeller screw O ring and replace if necessary, then insert the impeller screw (turn counterclockwise).
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/15/2016 

Anil Dabysing - I'm not sure which seal reference you are requesting. Here is a diagram of all the parts for the Sta-Rite Max-E-Pro Pump. The O-ring for the strainer pot cover is #17 (5057-34). If that is not the O-ring you are asking about, the other O-rings are listed in the diagram.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/15/2016 

do you have a reference of the seal(oil ring)for the cover.thanks
 Reply