I have a pool that is about 10,000 gallons but I am thinking of buying a salt chlorine system for pools up to 20,000 gallons. Would the larger unit be a problem?
Reply
It is not a problem to oversize a salt system. It would take the larger unit less time to produce the necessary chlorine so it is actually more efficient. When the pool volume is very close to the capacity of the salt chlorine generator (for example, the pool is 18,000 gallons and the generator is rated at a maximum of 20,000 gallons), we would recommend going up to the next size generator.
Reply
Is the salt included with the salt chlorine generator?
Reply
No, salt is not included. You would purchase the salt locally and the quantity will depend upon the number of gallons of water in your pool. Use a salt that is at least 99.8% pure NaCl. The preferred salt is evaporated, granulated, food quality, and NON-iodized. Avoid using salt with anti-caking agents like sodium ferrocyanide, also known as yellow YPS (prussiate of soda). These cause some discoloration of fittings and pool surface finishes. DO NOT use calcium chloride.
Reply
I'm getting ready to start up my salt water pool. What chemicals do I need?
Reply
If you are staring up the pool, you will want to top off your pool water level before you add any chemicals. To keep a salt water pool chlorinated, the salt range should be about 3200-3500ppm (you can find it in the owners manual). You should not have to add a significant amount of salt to your pool each year unless the pool has lost a significant amount of water due to draining or leakage. When you open your salt water pool, you will want to check the stabilizer, total chlorine, free chlorine, pH, phosphates, salt and alkalinity. The main chemical you will want to pay attention to is the conditioner/stabilizer. The conditioner is sunscreen for the chlorine your system will be making. Simply put, no conditioner = no chlorine. Two additional products that I would recommend are Salt Water Magic & PHOSFREE
Reply
I have a salt system on my pool. The pool is constantly turning green. The pool maintenance company we use shocks the pool every time it turns green but there seems to be no permanent solution. Could there possibly be something wrong with our chlorination system?
Reply
Without knowing more about the salt system and the water chemistry, it will be difficult to trouble shoot. I would recommend having the pool water tested and make any necessary adjustments. Once that is done, I would recommend contacting the manufacturer to trouble shoot the salt system to verify that it is working correctly.
Reply
I have metal stains in my swimming pool. How can I get rid of them?
Reply
To remove the stains, you can use this product. To prevent them you can use metal free.
Reply
How much salt will I need when I start up my salt system?
Reply
The exact amount of salt needed will depend on the size of the pool and the manufacturer of the salt system. On average, you will need 200-400 pounds of salt for an in ground swimming pool.
Reply
Will the water taste salty?
Reply
Generally you should not be able to taste any salt in the pool because the level of salt in the water is so low, however some people with sensitive palates might detect a small amount of salt.
Reply
Will the Aqua Rite work on a portable spa?
Reply
The Aqua Rite chlorinator is specifically designed for use with in-ground pools, and will not work with portable spas or hot tubs due to its high output.
Reply
What is “SUPER CHLORINATE”?
Reply
The unit will run in 2 separate polarities and continually switch sides as long as the pump continues to run. The desired output percentage dial will tell the chlorinator how long to generate in each polarity, SUPER CHLORINATE simply tells the unit to ignore the dial setting for 24 hours and generate chlorine at 100% of its capability.
Reply
Is the flow switch direction important?
Reply
Yes. The flow switch must be mounted so the arrows on the switch it’s self go in the direction of flow. Also, the flow switch requires 12 inches of straight pipe before the water enters the part to ensure there is no turbulence inside the switch compartment causing the switch to display “no flow” in error. Also, the switch needs to see at least 11GPM of flow to properly close the switch.
Reply
