This guide describes the Display Readings on a Hayward Aqua Rite Salt Chlorine Generator (SCG) and links you to a series of guides that tell you have to adjust or recalibrate some of these values including: Average Salt Level; Units of Measure, Cell Size, and Inspect Cell Timer Value.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/16/2021
The AquaRite manual lists 3200 ppm as the ideal salt level.Reply
Rich Posted: 4/10/2021
How do I change the display from Metric to English unitsReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/16/2021
That procedure can be found here: How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCGReply
Mike Posted: 2/7/2021
My diagnostic light does not light up.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 2/8/2021
There is no diagnostic light; there is a diagnostic button. Are you referring to either the No Flow, Check Salt, High Salt, or Inspect cell lights? If the cell is making chlorine and those lights aren't flashing then there isn't an issue.Reply
Maury Hull Posted: 2/1/2021
My output % display does not match the dial number. For example, to get the output to 65, the dial has to be turned up to 90. I can set the display at 60 and a few days later it will read something different. Is there a fix?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 2/4/2021
The display board likely needs to be replaced. Before you do that, have you made sure the knob isn't loose?If you need it, the AquaRite display board can be found here: Hayward AquaRite Display PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-DSPReply
Leighanne Cox Posted: 12/12/2020
My salt level reading said cold this morning...how do I get it back to tell me what the salt level is?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 12/14/2020
You can try resetting or recalibrating the cell to see if it will provide a reading before it shows COLD again. Or you can test the water using salt test strips to determine the pool's salinity level.Or wait until it warms up again so the cell can turn on and operate normally. If you are in an area where temps stay around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or lower for most of the winter, the salt level is not that vital. Temps below 50-60 degrees pretty much halt algae growth, so there's not much need for chlorine.Reply
Jevon Posted: 8/29/2020
Inspect cell and check salt light is on always ... I changed the cell to the same t-9 made sure the salt level is correct In the pool but the system still won’t recalibrate, it’s giving me a lower reading of 1800 instead of 3400 were the salt level really is. I’ve tried to select cell type but there is no options coming up on the display to select the cell type. Is the board outdated should I replace circuit board next.?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/3/2020
How old is your AquaRite control box? The original boxes (up until 2010, I think) only accepted a TCELL15. If you have an older model, your control is not set up to switch cell types or even recognize different cells. In that case, to get the new cell to work, you need to replace the Hayward AquaRite Main PCB (OEM) - GLX-PCB-RITEReply
George Posted: 7/20/2020
Hello, I currently have a Hayward aquarite system in which my T-Cell 9 is failing. Can I upgrade it to the T-Cell 15? in which I can produce more chlorine at less amount of work on the cell? Would this cause a problem? or it's not recommended. thanks for your feedback.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 10/6/2020
Yes, you can upgrade to the TCELL15. You just need to make sure you adjust the cell type in the control panel's settings menu. The cell will have a higher chlorine output, so you won't need to operate the generator at that high of a percentage. At what percentage you will need to run, the cell will vary on chlorine demand.Reply
Cyndee Posted: 6/16/2020
The salt level says 2.5. What does that mean? It was reading low salt and I added 2 bags yesterdayReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 9/2/2020
it appears you have the panel set for grams/Liter and not parts per million (ppm). The salt level that the System is calculating during the chlorination cycle. A "-" symbol is place in front of the number to distinguish it from the Average Salt Level. Measured in ppm or grams/Liter depending on units of measure setting. To change units of measure, see our guide on "How to Change the Units of Measurement on an Aqua Rite SCG"Reply
Kim Posted: 6/28/2019
My output % display does not match the dial number. For example, to get the output to 65, the dial has to be turned up to 90. Is there an easy fix?Reply
Debra Ballard Posted: 6/24/2019
I was getting the message add salt, inspect cell. So my cell was 5 years old so replaced it, still getting the same message. I had the PCB board totally inspected everything is working properly. Any ideas?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 7/3/2019
My first step would have been to test the salinity level at a local pool store to confirm whether or not it is wrong. If the salinity level checks out, makes sure the correct cell type is selected, as that will affect the readings on the display.Reply
Fred Posted: 6/18/2019
The only light on my cell if there power light. Will not generate . Mounted to the return for above ground pools. Anyone got any ideasReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 6/20/2019
The Diagnosing and Troubleshooting Your Hayward Aqua Rite System guide should give you an idea what is ailing your generator.Reply
Dominick Posted: 2/2/2019
Hi, to add to my last comment. When I first press the button to get to the polarity it will stay on zero and not calculate. However, if I start off by switching the auto, off , auto the polarity will count down for both sides. I didn't know if that was normal. It seems like it wants me to switch from auto, off, auto first before it will show a reading other than zero but if I just open the box and go to polarity it will stay at zero. Thank youReply
Dominick Posted: 2/2/2019
Hello, my salt reader says 2100, store tested 3,300 twice. It was acting up over the summer also. Cell is 6 years old. I am trying to understand the polarity. Which I check it by pressing the buttons it comes up as 0 but then it goes through its calculation. After it is done it reads .7 for one side and I think 2.4 on the other side. It is a T-9. is that an indication that the cell is bad? It is a Hayward. Thank you.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 2/4/2019
Hello Dominick - It looks like the cell might be bad. Try recalibrating the salt level. If that doesn't work, it's time to replace the salt cell.Reply
Dominick Posted: 3/3/2019
Hello, So I ended up getting a new aqua rite cell. I got the T-9 which is what I had and I have the right control panel version. How long does it take to produce chlorine? I have run it for two days and the chlorine level is very low, I have it set for 6-7 hours a day. My PH is a little high but other than that the water balance is good. As soon as I installed it my salt level went up, it read 3000 at first and now it has leveled off at 4000. The pool store read it at 3100. Thank you.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 3/4/2019
Hello Dominick - the cell will begin to produce chlorine once the saltwater starts flowing through the cell. How much chlorine it produces depends on the output level it is set. I would make sure the correct cell size is selected as shown in Step 9. You can also try calibrating the salt level as you will read in this guide, How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua RiteReply
ROBERT Posted: 1/31/2019
I was told that the salt level would not display on the diagnostic read out if the pool temperature was 60 degree or below. Is this true.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 2/1/2019
Hello Robert - According to Hayward, the salt level will not display if the temperature of the water is below 50°.Reply
ROBERT J ZBRANEK Posted: 2/1/2019
Guess I was told wrong.. I have another problem. Where do I find info on how to reset after cleaning cell. Light check salt and inspect cell are flashing. I cleaned the cell. Need info on how to stop lights from flashing. I believe I need to reset timer for another 500 hours.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 2/1/2019
Press and hold the diagnostics button for 5 seconds or until the Inspect Cell LED goes out. This will reset the inspect cell timer for another 500 operational hours.Reply
ROBERT J ZBRANEK Posted: 2/4/2019
I have done what you said to do. Flashing check salt and inspect cell light. Inspect cell light goes out but the check salt light continues to flash. I have to turn switch to off and then to Auto and the light will turn off. I check the panel in about two hours and the same thing is happening. Lights are flashinngReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 2/4/2019
Have you had the water tested? What is the salt level?Reply
ROBERT J ZBRANEK Posted: 2/4/2019
I have been testing the pool water every 3 to 4 days. The salt level is at 2800 ppm. I was told that the chlorine is 1 and ok.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Robert M. Posted: 2/4/2019
You're on the low end of the salt range. Hayward recommends 3200 ppm. We recommend contacting Hayward directly if you continue to have issues. 866-772-2100.Reply
Matthew Posted: 8/7/2018
Hello Allen - I would check that you have the correct cell type selected in your settings. Sometimes overlooked during this kind of troubeshooting, this little value has caused many a goosechase.Reply
Inyopools Posted: 5/8/2018
Hello Jim - A common problem is the failure of the current limiter on the Aquarite's main circuit board. The current limiter is flat round black disk in the upper right corner. Inspect that disk to see if it is damaged. Check out this video to see how to replace that part. Also, check out the AquaRite troubleshooting manual.Reply
Inyopools Posted: 5/8/2018
Check the stabilizer level (CYA). It should be around 50ppm. If it's low, the chlorine will burn up and you won't get a free chlorine reading. Try cleaning the cell first to see if that improves the chlorine production. The cells typically last 3-5 years. If you're outside of that , the cell might be going bad.Reply
Jim H Posted: 5/7/2018
Diagnostic button will not switch screens. Power and low flow illuminated. Any ideas on how to get this workingReply
Mark Posted: 5/6/2018
Unit was working fine. now it appears to not be generating chlorine. the only diagnostic that is out of whack is the voltage that shows slightly high at about 27 V. i will clean the unit. its about 9 years old. i just changed the board. i set it to t15 as the generator is a t-15.Reply
Inyopools Posted: 11/26/2017
John - Try resetting the "average salt level". See Step 10 of this guide. Then check to make sure the displayed cell size matches your installed cell size. See Step 9.Reply
John Posted: 11/20/2017
My unit is reading 3700 ppm salt even though I have not added salt in weeks, and I have added quite a lot of water to the pool. An independent tester found the salt to be actually 3000 ppm. The tester and the Aqua-Rite screen were in agreement until I cleaned the generator. I followed the manufacturer's instructions exactly. What is going on?Reply