How To Change The Shaft Seal On A Hayward PowerFlo Pump
How To Change The Shaft Seal On A Hayward PowerFlo Pump
WRITTEN BY:
Alex V.
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If your Hayward PowerFlo pump is leaking, it is likely the shaft seal on pump has failed. A failed shaft seal can cause damage to your motor and should be replaced as soon as possible. This guide will walk you through changing the shaft seal and gaskets.
First and foremost, make sure that power to the pump has been cut off. Unplug the pump if possible.
Step 2
Disconnect the hoses by removing the hose clamp then sliding the hose off of the hose adapter. Place the hoses over the swimming pool wall so that the water doesn’t drain out of the pool.
Step 3
I recommend placing the pump on a shop bench or table so that it is easier to work on.
Step 4
Remove the pump lid by gripping the handle and slowly turning the cover counter clockwise, the pulling up towards you. Once the cover is off, remove the basket and drain any water inside of the strainer housing.
Step 5
Next, we’ll need to remove the strainer. To do this, we’ll first need to remove the c-clip that locks it into place. Simply pull it gently outwards towards you and lift it out of place.
Step 6
Now you can begin turning the strainer counter clockwise (if you are facing the strainer) until it can be removed.
Step 7
The next step is to remove the front cover strainer. There are 8 bolts that hold it into place. Using an 8mm socket, begin removing the nuts and bolts.
Step 8
Once the front cover has been removed, you’ll need to expose the rear end of the shaft. If the motor does not have a cover on the back, you can simply remove the shaft access cover.
Step 9
If the motor has a cover on it, you’ll need to remove it to access the rear end of the shaft. Using the 1/4" socket, remove the screw that holds the cover to the motor. The cover can be moved to the side exposing the shaft.
Step 10
With a flat head screw driver, hold the end of the shaft in place while spinning the impeller off of the shaft counter clockwise. Place it to the side for now
Step 11
Using a 1/4" socket, loosen and remove the thru-bolts. If you feel resistance, I would recommend stopping and contacting a professional. If the thru bolts snap, you may have to buy additional parts or a new pump. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Step 12
Once the thru-bolts have been removed, the pump housing can be removed. Make note of the pump housing position before removing it. Place the pump housing face down and use the tip of the screw driver to push the shaft seal out. Be careful not to push on the plastic seat that the shaft seal sits in.
Step 13
Once the ceramic half of the shaft seal has been removed, inspect and clean the pump housing making certain that the rubber seat of the shaft seal was removed as well.
Step 14
Next we will remove the “spring” half of the shaft seal from the impeller. You can simply pull to remove it by hand.
Step 15
If your impeller looks like this after that shaft seal has been removed, you still have one more step. Using the pliers, grip the remainder of the shaft seal and remove it by turning and pulling. Clean the impeller shaft and place it aside for now.
Step 16
Lubricate the shaft seal seat inside of the pump housing.
Step 17
Using a clean paper towel, pick up the ceramic half of the shaft seal (do not touch it with your hands) and push it into place.
Step 18
Once the shaft seal is in place, you can begin installing the pump housing back onto the motor. Line up the thru bolt holes on the motor with the holes on the back of the pump housing.
Step 19
With the pump housing in place, lubricate the shaft of the impeller. Install the other half of the shaft seal onto the impeller. The black surface of the shaft seal should be facing you once installed.
Step 20
Using the flat head screw driver, hold the rear end of the shaft in place and thread the impeller back onto the shaft.
Step 21
Inspect the pump housing o-ring and replace if necessary. Lubricate the o-ring before putting it back onto the pump housing.
Step 22
Once the o-ring is in place, you can put the pump housing cover back on. Use the nuts and bolts you removed before to attach it to the pump housing.
Step 23
Before installing the strainer housing, inspect the o-ring and replace if necessary Lubricate the o-ring before putting it back on.
Step 24
The strainer doesn’t need to be threaded on tightly. Once it is upright with a little play, line up the grooves, and install the retaining clip.
Step 25
Inspect the lid o-ring and replace if necessary.
Step 26
Re-install the strainer basket and fill the strainer with water to prime the pump. Inspect the lid o-ring and replace if necessary, lubricate the lid o-ring then secure the lid to the strainer.
Step 27
Turn the power on to the pump and check for leaks. If these are any leaks, turn off the power to the pump and repair the leak.
Step 28
Your project is now complete and your pump should be as good as new.
I have a Hayward Power Flo LX and can’t get or pop off the little silver circle off to get my impeller off. Used a flat head screw driver and it won’t budge.
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S.Posted: 5/23/2022
I am replacing the seal on my SP1580. I have installed my new ceramic half of the seal, but noticed that it does not completely bottom out on the flat portion of the seat. it lacks maybe 1/8". I tried lightly tapping it, but it doesn't go down any farther. Does it actually seat on the flat portion of the recess, or does the rubber cup portion make the seal by gripping the sides of the recess?
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S.Posted: 4/15/2020
The rubber gasket around the ceramic seal and the spring tension of the other side keeps the mechanism watertight.
Reply
DickPosted: 2/19/2020
Found a solution to a frozen impeller that I had asked about. I clamped a pair of vice grips to the motor shaft between the motor and the pump housing. Then I gave the impeller blades 3 or 4 lights raps with a screwdriver and hammer- SUCCESS! with no damage to impeller
Reply
AnonymousPosted: 8/8/2019
How tight do you make the impeller on the motor shaft?
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S.Posted: 8/8/2019
Hand-tighten the impeller because the rotation of the motor keeps the impeller secured to the shaft.
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R.Posted: 7/18/2014
Pump seals – The “200” shaft seal goes on a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas or Max-E-Glas pump. The “201” shaft seal goes on a a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas II or Max-E-Glas II pump. These seal should not be lubricated especially the ceramic surfaces.
Reply
AnonymousPosted: 7/18/2014
I am installing a new pump,i have 2 pump seals a 200 and a 201,they look the same which one goes where.also what kind of lubricant do I use
Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R.Posted: 7/18/2013
tom g - I'm not sure what the issue is here. The ceramic part of the seal comes with the rubber gasket on the seal. If the issue is getting the seal and rubber gasket into the pump housing, check to make sure that the old rubber gasket came out with the old ceramic seal. Sometime that gasket is left behind and prevents the insertion of the new gasket and seal.
Reply
tom gPosted: 7/17/2013
Was great except I wasn't sure how to put back the rubber gasket on the ceramic motor shaft seal
Kristal Posted: 5/22/2022
I have a Hayward Power Flo LX and can’t get or pop off the little silver circle off to get my impeller off. Used a flat head screw driver and it won’t budge.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 5/23/2022
Please review the diagram on the following link. Which key number in the diagram are your referring to? Hayward Power-Flo LX1580, 1520UN, 1680Reply
Gary H Posted: 4/14/2020
I am replacing the seal on my SP1580. I have installed my new ceramic half of the seal, but noticed that it does not completely bottom out on the flat portion of the seat. it lacks maybe 1/8". I tried lightly tapping it, but it doesn't go down any farther. Does it actually seat on the flat portion of the recess, or does the rubber cup portion make the seal by gripping the sides of the recess?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 4/15/2020
The rubber gasket around the ceramic seal and the spring tension of the other side keeps the mechanism watertight.Reply
Dick Posted: 2/19/2020
Found a solution to a frozen impeller that I had asked about. I clamped a pair of vice grips to the motor shaft between the motor and the pump housing. Then I gave the impeller blades 3 or 4 lights raps with a screwdriver and hammer- SUCCESS! with no damage to impellerReply
Anonymous Posted: 8/8/2019
How tight do you make the impeller on the motor shaft?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Matt S. Posted: 8/8/2019
Hand-tighten the impeller because the rotation of the motor keeps the impeller secured to the shaft.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/18/2014
Pump seals – The “200” shaft seal goes on a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas or Max-E-Glas pump. The “201” shaft seal goes on a a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas II or Max-E-Glas II pump. These seal should not be lubricated especially the ceramic surfaces.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 7/18/2014
I am installing a new pump,i have 2 pump seals a 200 and a 201,they look the same which one goes where.also what kind of lubricant do I useReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 7/18/2013
tom g - I'm not sure what the issue is here. The ceramic part of the seal comes with the rubber gasket on the seal. If the issue is getting the seal and rubber gasket into the pump housing, check to make sure that the old rubber gasket came out with the old ceramic seal. Sometime that gasket is left behind and prevents the insertion of the new gasket and seal.Reply
tom g Posted: 7/17/2013
Was great except I wasn't sure how to put back the rubber gasket on the ceramic motor shaft sealReply