How To Wire A Pool Pump

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Pool pumps are wired to run on either 230V or 115V. Most are run on 230V and are preset at the manufacturers at 230V. If you are going to wire your own pool pump, you must first know what voltage is coming to your pump from the house circuit breaker. Also you must ensure that the electrical supply agrees with the motor's voltage, phase, and cycle and that all electrical wiring conforms to local codes and NEC regulations. If you are unsure of this voltage or are unfamiliar with electrical codes and regulations, have a professional electrician wire your pump for you or at least check your work.
Failure to wire the pump correctly can cause electrical shock or can damage your pump motor and void your warranty.

Things You'll Need

Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

Measure the voltage on the wires going to your pool pump. See "How To Use a Multimeter to Test a Pool Pump Motor - Voltage". This voltage will be either 230-240V or 115-120V. Pool Pump manufacturers commonly list these as 230V or 115V. Generally you will have three wires coming to your pump. For 230V you will generally have a red, a black and a green wire. The red and black wires are both hot. There is no neutral. The green wire is always ground. For 115V the three wires are generally black (hot), white (neutral) and green (ground).

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Step 2

CAUTION: Before you start wiring your pool pump, turn off all power to the pump at the breaker box.

Step 3

Unscrew the two screws that hold the cover over the back end of the motor. Remove the cover to expose the electrical connectors.

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Step 4

Screw a metal elbow onto your pool pump at the end of the motor.

Step 5

Run conduit from the metal box to the pump. String your three wires thru the conduit and metal elbow into the end of the motor. Screw the conduit collar onto the end of the elbow. Ensure that your wire size is adequate for the HP rating and distance from the power source. Check your pool pump owners manual for the correct size. Wire sizes generally run 14 AWG for motors up to 1 HP and from 14 AWG to 10AWG for larger motors depending on HP and Voltage.

Step 6

If you are wiring for 230V, the three wires coming to the pool pump from the circuit box are red, black and green. In this example for Hayward pool pumps, red will go to the L1 terminal and black will go to the L2 terminal. The green wire will be under the green screw to the far right. In addition there is a black plug with two wires coming from inside the motor , a black wire and white wire with a black tracer line. The black plug is positioned so that the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at 230V.

Step 7

For clarification, this picture shows the terminals without the wires. The red wire is attached to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). The black wire is attached to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). The green wire is attached to Ground (GND). The black plug is positioned so that the black wire is attached to terminal 5. For 230V the white wire is not attached.

Step 8

If you are wiring for 115V, the three wires to the pool pump will be black, white and green. Attach the black (115 V) wire to terminal 1 of Line 1 (L1). Attach the white wire (0 V) to terminal 3 of Line 2 (L2). Attach the green wire under the Ground screw (GND). The black plug is shifted in position so the black wire is attached to terminal 4 Line 2 (L2) and the white wire is attached to terminal 5. Note: in this position the white arrow on top of the 2 prong black plug is pointing at the 115V label.

Step 9

Replace the pool pump motor cover and secure it with the two screws.

Step 10

Lastly your pool pump motor must be bonded in accordance with local electrical code requirements. Use a solid copper conductor, size 8 AWG or larger. Run this wire from from a reinforcing rod to the pressure wire connector provided on the motor housing. Note: In this example the wire coming from the bottom of the picture is going to the pump. The upper wire is going to the heater to bond the heater.

Comments

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(361 to 400 of 484)

 Posted: 1/8/2013 

Steps 6 & 7 of your instructions have the red wire connected to L1, and the black to L2. This is the reverse of convention, as I understand, and all the web sites I find that discuss L1 & L2 and their colors.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/25/2012 

Shawn - Sounds like you may have 120V coming into your motor that is probably set up for 230V. Check your source voltage with a meter and see if it's 120V. If so, you will have to reconfigure your motor to 120V. New motors are set and shipped at 230V.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/25/2012 

My Hayward pump stopped working after 6 yers so I replaced it. The new one just hums like the original and gets hot. Red to L1, black to L2, green to ground. Any suggestions? Thanks
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 11/6/2012 

ghayden - Make sure your DE filter is clean. Besides backwashing you should pull all the grids and wash them individually. If that doesn't bring the pressure down, you might consider buying a larger filter.
 Reply

 Posted: 11/5/2012 

My old 3/4 hp SwimQuip pool pump (25+ yrs) needed to be replaced. When I replaced it, I saw that it was wired for 220V, even tho the supply is only 115V. I wired the Hayward 3/4hp replacement as a 115V pump. The pump runs fine, but now the pressure on my DE filter is doubled and I am afraid the elements won't take the stress. Where do I go from here?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 10/2/2012 

115V motor wiring - It sounds like your motor is configured for 230V and you are supplying 115V. Most motors come from the factory set for 230V operation. If your source power is 115V, you will have to reconfigure your motor to run on 115V.
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Anonymous  Posted: 9/30/2012 

I have a grey wire, white wire and a copper wire. When I turn the pump on, it runs for five second. Then trips a breaker. The grey wire is connected to L1 and the white wire is connected to L2. The copper wire is connected to the housing. 115 volts

I replaced the motor on a dura-glass pump.

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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 9/26/2012 

matt - This is AC power so the motor is run with the wires connected to either terminal. Sometimes on 115 volt motors, there will be a designation as to where the "hot" lead goes. This is done so that the hot lead is connected to the side of the circuit that has the overload closest to that terminal.
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 Posted: 9/25/2012 

If the L1 and L2 wires are reversed will the pool pump still run?
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Anonymous  Posted: 8/26/2012 

great info . thanks
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/24/2012 

TAMMY - Sounds like a major wiring problem. You're going to have to have an electrician look at this one.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/24/2012 

Tony - You may have a capacitor problem. See our guide on replacing capacitors. If that isn't the problems, you may have to have an electrician look at your wiring.
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 Posted: 8/23/2012 

WE HAD SOME SERIOUS ISSUES GOING ON WITH OUR HOT TUB
1ST OFF THE PUMP WAS LEAKING WHEN IT WAS ON HIGH POWER
AFTER CHANGING THE PUMP THE HOT TUB GOES ON TO LOW , THE LIGHT COMES ON, THE HEAT GOES ON & THEN WHEN YOU WANT TO USE THE HIGH PUMP - IT TRIPPS THE WHOLE CIRCUIT FROM THE CIRCUIT PANEL IN THE BASEMENT- GOES PASS THE GHFI PLUG INSTALLED ON THE SIDE OF THE TUB. 2 SPEED 110V 11.5 HP- NEW CIRCUIT BOARD, NEW TERMINALS, NEW PLUG WHAT'S HAPPENING?????

 Reply

 Posted: 8/22/2012 

When I turn my pump on, it sounds like it is switching on and off. I have it wired in the 115V configuration.
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/22/2012 

Daniel - For 220V wiring with red and black wires hot and green ground, red to green or black to green should be 110 on a 220 volt circuit. It would be 220 across red and black. A note: If one of your lines has been burned out say after a storm, you can still see 110 across EACH of the separate lines but you will have a 0 reading across the red and black lines.
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 Posted: 8/21/2012 

So back to someone else's question. Is each leg suppose read 120 v individually, or 230v individually?
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 Posted: 8/11/2012 

I am installing a 1-1/2 hp pump for an above ground pool. Operating voltage is 230,8.7A, 12 ga wire, approx 100 feet from source, L1 and L2 only. I have purchased a 20 amp GFCI breaker. According to the instructions it states 'do not ground neutral on load side of breaker.' Since the motor frame must be grounded to a ground rod and the pool, do I leave the load side neutral disconnected? If so, will the GFCI work properly?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 8/8/2012 

djbinva - If you put the meter probes on the red and black leads, it will read around 230V if your source power is 230V.
 Reply

 Posted: 8/7/2012 

What voltage will the black or red line be in a 230V setup? Are they each ~115V when measured(ie 230V combined) or should they each read 230V?
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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/31/2012 

Bill - According to the motor manufacturers, there is no difference in efficiency between 230 and 115 if the proper voltage is available. The only savings might be in the wire size to the pump. Wire is rated according to its ability to carry current (amps). Since 230V runs with half the amperage of 115V, the required cable to the pump would be smaller and less expensive.
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 Posted: 7/31/2012 

I have a pool pump that was wired for 115 volts by an electrician. The pool service said it should have been wired at 230 because it will last longer and run more efficiently and use less electric. It can be run either way. Which is correct?
Thanks,
Bill

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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/22/2012 

Dan - 1- If you are looking for a 30 amp GFCI, I am assuming that your pump is wired for 115V. If you pump is wired for 230V, you need a 15 amp GFCI. I checked with the local hardware stores and as you said, they do not carry 30 amp GFCIs. They recommended going to an electrical supply house. 2- A switch is more convenient but pulling the plug works.
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 Posted: 7/21/2012 

I have 2 questions. 1- The manual for the pump which is a hayward 1.5 hp superpump. Using a rubber cord and plug to an outlet near the pump. Manual says needs a 30 amp breaker and 10 awg wire. How do you GFCI a 30 amp pump? I cannot find a 30 amp GFCI recepticle or a 30 amp GFCI breaker. 2- does it require a disconnecting means such as a switch?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/7/2012 

Bill - Yes you can use the bare wire for ground.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 7/7/2012 

tonito - When an in ground pool is installed, a grid of metal rebar is laid down in and around it and all electrical equipment (lights, pumps, heater) is grounded to it. See step 17 in How To Build an In-ground Pool. If your pump was stolen, you should see a heavy copper wire coming out of the ground where the pump was.
 Reply

 Posted: 7/5/2012 

thank you so much,I was told my pump was burned out but it was just the capacitor
now i have a spare pump motor because the pool company replaced it under warranty

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 Posted: 7/4/2012 

The wire to my timer and pump are black, white, and bare. Can I use the bare as the ground or do I need to buy wire with the green ground?
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 Posted: 7/3/2012 

Well i want to thank the guys with the pictures and instructions i just needed help with tje last picture i dont understand what bonded means or how to connect that wire so if i can get the help i will apreciated im berly starting to lwarn in how to install it for aome bad reason they stole my pool pumps
 Reply

 Posted: 7/2/2012 

I have a AO Smith B855 motor and have four wires going to pump (Red, Blk, Grn & White). My motor is two speed (Hi/Lo) and 230V (115 x 2) and the lugs on motor are labeled B, L1, L2 & A. My question is how should it be wired? only the Hi speed runs when I have it wired like B-Wht, L1- Red, L2-Blk & nothing on B.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/26/2012 

SJBURKS - The Salt Chlorine Generator is connected to the same timer that controls your pump. See our How To Guide on installing a Salt Chlorine Generator: http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_install_an_in_line_salt_chlorine_generator.aspx
 Reply

 Posted: 6/25/2012 

How can I wire my salt unit so that it runs with the pump?
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Anonymous  Posted: 6/17/2012 

Would like to thank the poster of this, the motor I got showed (wired for 230 from factory) guess what, the jumper was in the wrong position! This was the only place that had a picture of it in the correct position for 230!
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/14/2012 

kc - Yes, you can use a 1 HP motor with the pump housing that came with the original 2 HP motor. However, you will also have to buy a new impeller and possibly new diffuser that match up with a 1 HP motor.
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 Posted: 6/12/2012 

Can one use a 1 hp (1 and 1/6 hp ) super pump on a 2 hp model 2615 pump impeller/strainer housing still new in the box which was given to me. I know the inlets are 2 inch but I plan to use a 2 inch to 1 and 1/2 in reducer to match my 1 and 1/2 inch pool lines.
Any problems that might arise using this combo?

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InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/11/2012 

Beth - Motors can get very hot - almost too hot to touch - especially if the sun is beating down on them on a hot day. A couple of things to check. Make sure to clear any debris away from the base of the motor. Check your line voltage to make sure it's within 10% of 115V or 220V. In some areas it will drop with heavy load. If your pump is far from the breaker box, you may have to look at increasing the wire size to the pump. Also check that the impeller is not clogged with debris. Your pump may be working harder than it has too.
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 Posted: 6/9/2012 

I just replaced my pool pump motor. Motor seems to get very hot in a short period of time. How warm or hot should the pump motor get? And at what point would the pump motor shut down?
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Anonymous  Posted: 6/9/2012 

Thanks so much for info...youz guyz are zee best
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/9/2012 

2 red wires - No it does not matter which red wire goes to L1 which goes to L2. They are interchangeable. What is important is to make sure that your pump is set up correctly for the power coming in. If you have 220V from the breaker box, your pump has to be configured for 220V. If 115V, pump must be configured for 115V.
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Anonymous  Posted: 6/8/2012 

Let me clarify this...tore out my old 1 hp ao smith and replacing it with a 1 hp hayward super pump. 2 red wires and a green from the old set up. Does it matter where the 2 reds are connected to, ie L1 or L2?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 6/7/2012 

Henry - According to the motor mfr rep, it is ok to switch from one speed to the other without turning the motor off, and letting it stop. Air switches on spas change from low to high to off as they progress through the normal cycle. Some pump motors actually start on low speed all the time, regardless of which speed is selected. This reduces the inrush current.
 Reply