The pool pump is literally the heart of your pool’s circulation system. But just like our own hearts, we have a tendency to neglect the health and well-being of the pool pump and then freak out when it’s not working properly. There are probably dozens of pool pump mistakes out there. . . here are our top 5.
Not Cleaning Pump Basket
Let’s start with the very basics. The pump strainer basket exists to catch debris but it can’t clean itself. You need to reach in there and get the gunk out. If you don’t, the pool will have decreased water flow which means reduced filtration and ultimately, the dreaded algae bloom. The pump basket should be cleared out weekly and even more frequently during the fall and spring when there is more debris in the pool. Learn more here about how to clean your pump strainer basket.
Running Pump Too Little or Too Much
Some pool owners, desperate to save money on their electric bills, actually cost themselves more in the long run by not running
the pump long enough. To maintain water quality and safety, all of the water in your pool should be turned over (meaning filtered) once a day. Depending on the gallons per minute your pump is moving, this usually takes 8 – 12 hours. If you don’t give all the water a chance to pass through the filter, you can end up with dirty, cloudy water, algae and the need to spend more on chemicals and maintenance than you would’ve given to your utility company to run the pump a little longer.
On the flip side, there is running the pump too long. Some believe in keeping it going 24/7 which might be necessary under certain conditions but for most pools is just wasteful overkill. It drains both energy and money while causing unnecessary strain on the pool pump motor. Your pump will burn out more quickly and require replacement of parts or the entire unit. Plus, you are driving your neighbors crazy! Give them a break from that humming motor and save some money in the process. For standard residential pools with moderate use, you only need to turn over all the water once in a 24 hour time period. If you are into the math behind pump run times and savings, read our How to Reduce Your Pool Pump Energy Bill guide.
Sizing Pump Incorrectly
There is a very persistent myth in the pool world that the higher the horsepower, the better. As a result, it is probably safe to say that the majority of pools have oversized pumps. We regularly hear from customers with a relatively small pool (~ 10,000 gallons) and a pump that is moving 2 – 3 times the gallons per minute required. This means unnecessarily high electric bills and a lot of wasted energy. Too large of a pump can cause poor filter performance and even damage it, if the filter is not also oversized accordingly. Another possible consequence is pump cavitation in which bubbles form in the water inside the pump and then burst with great force, resulting in damage to the impeller and other internal parts.
Conversely, some pool owners try to save a few bucks by buying a lower horsepower pump that is too small for their pool’s demands. This is especially true when a spa and other water features, such as deck jets or waterfalls, are tied into the pool pump. Throw an automatic suction cleaner into the mix and that undersized pump is overloaded.
The bottom line? Do the math to calculate how many gallons are in your pool (and spa if applicable) and how many gallons per minute are required to filter all of that water in 8 – 12 hours. Then consult the manufacturer’s pump performance charts to determine what pump actually meets your needs. Or skip all that, contact us and we’ll do the legwork for you!
Not Priming Pump / Running Dry
Most in-ground pool pumps are self-priming but do not mistakenly think this means your pump can initially prime itself. “Self-priming” refers to the pump being able to reprime, and this depends upon a proper initial prime and maintenance. Priming a pump means filling the intake with water. Then upon start, the pump will push any air out through the discharge. Read our step-by-step priming guide for all the details.
A loss of prime will cause the pump to run dry which you never want to do. Keeping an eye on the pool water level is a must – don’t let it drop below the skimmer opening. If the pump has no water to pull from the skimmer, it will draw air instead and lose prime which leads to running dry. At the least, this will ruin the motor shaft seal which is what prevents water from getting inside the motor. If it keeps running dry, the pump heats up and so does the water inside. Commence melting plastic. The motor might survive due to the high temp sensor kicking in but the wet end of the pump will be a casualty. If your pump has run dry and appears to have survived, replace the shaft seal!
Not Changing the Shaft Seal During Motor Replacement
I literally grind my teeth over this one. Replacement pool pump motors are an extremely popular product for us – and with good reason. In the majority of cases, when a pump fails, the wet end is fine and only the motor needs to be replaced. Since a pump motor is roughly half the price of a new pump, it makes often sense to keep the existing wet end and just buy a new motor. Especially true for DIYers who don’t have to pay an installer.
But so many people buy just the motor and neglect the small yet extremely important shaft seal. This seal keeps water out of the motor (water inside motor + time = failed motor). Yes, your existing motor will already have a seal on the shaft and it might appear to be in good shape and ok to reuse. However, shaft seals warp over time. If you install the old seal on a new motor, there is a good chance it will not mate properly, leading to leakage which voids the warranty on the new motor.
So don’t skip the new shaft seal! Depending on the pump model, you’re looking at about $15 – $30 to protect a new motor that is worth much more than that. Invest those few extra bucks – you will not regret it. While you’re at it, motor replacement is a great opportunity to upgrade other internal parts most likely to fail. Check for our complete tune up kits, available for many of the most common pool pumps. These include the shaft seal, along with o-rings, gaskets and lubricant. For help with replacing the seal, check out our how to guide and video.
Hi!
I am always struggleing with a lot of bugs, pollen and millions of gnats in my pool.
Three or four times a day we are skimming and cleaning out the catch basin but no matter what the pool has stuff floating around.
What can I do to minimize this?!
Thanks!
Are you dosing your pool with algaecide currently? I have heard bugs are attracted to its scent.
i have a waterco multicyclone plus 12 filtration system.it is attached to a 1/2 horse power pump. all works well , but as the filter starts to do its job the power of the pump does not seem to be enough to keep forcing water through the filter and requires me to strip down the filter, clean it and reassemble to get it working efficiently again. i think the filter should be able to run longer between cleaning. the working pressure on the filter rises from 0 to just under 1bar[11psi] when i have to clean it. the pool is small, only 27m3[7000 gl]. do you think i need a bigger[stronger] pump for the filter.
One of the guys cut a pigtail to a Skil saw which tripped a breaker we know that they are not on the same circuit breaker, would that cause the pump to stop working??
That shouldn’t stop the pump to my knowledge, but you should probably have an electrician come out and take a look at it firsthand.
I have an inground Hayward saltwater pool. On 2 occ I have received a LO reading on the heater and the pump sounds like it is grinding. I then backwash the pool to restore the flow, re-prime and that seems to set it to flow correctly. I just backwashed the yesterday and I had to backwash again today because I was getting a LO reading again. Is there something else going on. We just got a major thunderstorm and I’m wondering if the water level is too high there for interfering with the flow.
Also on another note, I’m noticing some creases on the bottom of my pool in the liner as well as what seems to be Airpark it’s in some spots on the wall.do you have any idea what may be causing this. My pool is only two years old.
Sorry my auto type doesn’t hear well. I am seeing air pockets along some spots on the walls of the pool behind the liner. Does this mean I have water coming in behind.
Sarah,
First question, is this a DE or a sand filter? If this is a sand filter, you may have to change the sand. Backwashing the filter helps rid your sand of excessive dirt and debris but eventually your sand gets so saturated it won’t matter what you do the water can’t get through it fast enough.
Air or water pockets behind the liner could is a potentially bad sign, you will need to find out where that leak is coming from. Have you had excessive or flooding recently? Also what is being behind your liner: steel walls, fiberglass shell or other?
I have an inground pool. One afternoon, I had turned off the filters to open the chamber to clean the 4 cartridges. After cleaning, i forgot to place the cartridges and replace the lid of the chamber that evening. The next morning, being on a timer, the filters ran for several hours. My pool water level dropped by 2 feet. I ordered 6,000 gallons of water to increase level so filters can run. The motor runs but now i’ve noticed that it runs louder than prior to this event. Did i cause harm to the motor?
What kind of sound is the motor making? If it is a screeching or grinding sound, it would be the bearings, which may have been caused by some of that 6,000 gallons getting into the motor.
Chlorinated water that is…
Hi, I own an in ground pool and our water levels are higher than needed… we want to swim tomorrow but have no idea how to drain the pool without a pool drainer … what should we do? And is it safe to swim if the water is 2 high ?
What levels are too high? Can you provide the chemical levels? Chlorine, pH, TA, and CH.
Pools can be drained by using a multiport valve’s waste setting.
I have quadruple my shocked my pool due to turning green after 2 days of sitting due to a hose busting. No I cant get rid of the green. Please help. Also can a hose be to long for the pump back to the sand filter?
Get a free water test from a local pool store and post the results.
How long is the hose?
Hello. I have an above ground pool, and a Hayward pump. The pump is in it’s 4th season. The filter is as old. When I run the pump for any length of time over an hour, and then turn it off, it pulls the water from the filter, and pushes it backward into the pool through the intake skimmer. It is with such force that it honestly is a 10″ fountain of water pushing up out of the skimmer. This causes a vacuum in the filter, and the hoses are all empty of water. So I switch the filter dial to the winter position, which allows water from the pool to fill the filter. At the same time, I remove the lid of the pump and allow water to flow back in from the skimmer. I must do this every time I turn off the pump. This has been happening for just about 2 weeks. I had a technician out to evaluate and he told me I need to replace the pump, that they only last 4-5 years. I don’t feel this is not acceptable. Would you please give me your thoughts … any ideas of how to repair this? Thanks for your time.
sorry, meant to say I don’t feel this is acceptable. 🙂
This pump and filter, are they positioned above the waterline on the deck?
And a pump can last decade or more, it depends on the pump.
I have a sand filter for our above ground pool. Hubby overfilled the pool last night. Can I turn the filter on without draining the excess water without damaging anything?
Yes, you can run the pump and filter, just run the excess water to the sand filter’s waste line to lower the level.
I am having a problem vacuuming the pool. The pump and filter runs fine, but as soon as I plug in vac (front of skimmer), there is no suction. That lead to us putting the line directly into the filter and we were able to vacuum, which worked once. Now if I try to do that (which obviously isn’t the right way) it sucks the pumps basket dry. I have removed the filter and cleaned it with muriatic acid. It is a new filter (2 mos). There has to be a leak, but all hoses have been removed and checked. I was thinking the gasket at the top of the filter housing was cranked down on damage might have been done there, but while filtering, we have 15 psi. Suggestions?
It sounds like an air leak on the suction side of the pump, we cover this subject in this how-to guide and video: How to Identify and Correct Air Leaks. The filter housing is on the pressure side of the pump, so if there was a leak you would see a stream of water.
The issue may be coming from the strainer lid gasket of the pump, which is an easy fix. If the pump and filter are working fine except when the vacuum hose is connected, my first inspection would be of the hose. There may be a pinhole leak somewhere on the line. A good way to find a leak, is to cap each hose section and submerge it, if air bubbles start streaming from the hose then that is your culprit.
When you say I would see a stream of water on the filter housing/pressure side, you are referring to a stream coming out of the housing unit correct? Also, I just replaced the gasket on the strainer last year. I don’t really see a leak from there, but its possible. How long do those gaskets last. It’s been one hot summer here. I will remove all hoses and test them to see what I find. Thanks for ur help!
There is no set time on when a gasket will go, it can pop out of the groove or get pinched anytime. A quick way to find an air leak is to light an incense or a cigarette then wave it close to the pipe, if there is a leak the smoke will be pulled in.
When I say filter housing, I mean the filter’s main tank, that holds the sand, cartridges, or grids.
I’m using a Kreepy Krauler type vacuum that hooks to the skimmer. When it’s running my pump loses prime.
I’m assuming the vacuum just isn’t sucking enough water to keep it primed but why? And can it be remedied?
I have a spa overflowing into the pool. Not sure if that is a factor.
I have an unground pool and the deep end is continuously cloudy. I had people come and check and they say everything is fine. I know something is wrong because I never had this happen before.
That can be a sign of bad circulation, try directing the return jets at that end of the pool towards the floor to churn up the cloudy water. Also, shock the pool and dose it with clarifier to clear the cloudiness.
My question is if power is reaching the clock, and the gears ARE turning, but there is no power/voltage where the three wires connect to the pump, what could my issue be?
I’ve looked over wiring on both sides and made sure the wires are securely fastened, and I don’t see any wire damage.
I would try replacing the wires, you may have a bad cable running from the timer to the motor.
Need to turn off power take the timer out of the box and turn it on to see if the contents are connecting correctly or one may need to be adjusted
I’ll have a technician look into it.
Can also be a broken line. A pressure test can let you know. 15psi and see if it holds
I have an issue with my pump losing prime when the skimmer valve is open. There is some water that stays in the pump but it seems like it is pulling air. The jets are spurting water/air to the point that it almost looks like a hot tub. Valves on the suction side have been replaced in an attempt to resolve the problem. When I close the skimmer valve everything runs smoothly and pump is fully primed. The moment the skimmer valve is opened half-way, the pump loses prime immediately and I lose a steady flow in the jets. Any ideas? I’ve gone through 2 pool guys with little luck.
Specs: inground salt water pool. 35′ x 15′
New pump, new t-cell, new heater, new spider in filter, new sand,
My only guess would be a gap in the glue/joint on a tee or elbow on the skimmer line to the pump.
thanks!
Does your pool leak? U may have a crack in skimmer line or fitting at skimmer under ground.
I was using the vacuum on our above ground 4ftx28ft pool for the first time, it has alot of sand in the pool from the installation. The skimmer basket for blocked and I shut the pump off really fast. Took the vacuum out, primed the pump and when I turned it back on, it was making a humming sound. I am wondering if the impeller is bound by something. Unsure of next steps.
Have a read of this article and the guides it mentions a few things that it could be: Pool Motor Troubleshooting Your motor may have just overheated if it was running dry, let it sit for a bit to cool off then try it.
Thank you so much for your help!
my pool pump heats up when i use ac source from my local power supply but runs very well on generator. what could be the problem ac source is 247 v all the time but drops to 160 when i turn on the pump
Are you using the same lines to connect the motor to the generator, and the motor to grid power? The drop in voltage and subsequent overheating may be a sign of one of the 220-240 lines connected to the grid being damaged, causing the motor to draw more amps, and therefore create more heat. I would try running new lines to the motor.
I have a above ground pool tried too turn pump on high and water started too coming out of the back of pump
Like through the motor? If so, it seems like you have a bad shaft seal or a cracked seal plate. You’ll have to open the pump to be for sure, but take a look at this how-to guide to give you an idea how to replace a shaft seal: How To Replace a Pool Motor Shaft Seal,
I took the top off the pump 2 clean it out. When I put it back on there is a small leak. Should I turn off the pump until I can have someone help me or will it be fine with a small leak thru the day?
Is the leak coming from a crack in the casing or from a leaky gasket? You can still run it but you will have to keep an eye on it just in case it gets severely worse. Figure out what the source of the leak is, and fix it asap; a small leak can turn into a gusher in no time.
The pump to our pool kicked off when the water from the 2nd pool filter overflowed as I was priming it.
It hasn’t turned on since. It’s been about 40 hours
Was the motor flooded with water, or did it flip the breaker?
Hi, I can’t find an existing post or answer related to my problem…. pump fell out from bottom of skimmer basket on above ground pool, so of course water flowed (quickly!) over the top of the pump before we were able to lodge it back in place. It’s a cheap Walmart metal frame pool, 10 ft. Pump didn’t turn on. We are going to try to let it dry out, but is there anything else we can do?
I’ve never fiddled with one of of their pumps so I’m not sure how much you can do with it once it is in that condition. But yeah, I would let it dry out for a day or two; then you can figure out if you will need a new skimmer or a new skimmer and a new skimmer and pump.
We have had an above ground pool that we purchased at Walmart last summer. The pump was working last summer but we put the pool up today and the pump doesn’t seem to be working. Does the pump need water to turn on? I mean like does water need to run through it to turn on? We have it plugged up but it doesn’t seem to be working. I’m trying to see if I should purchase another pump or not.
Did you open the no at the top of the pump to let the air out? You have to do it until you see water come out and then the pump will turn on
No, water does not need to be in the pump for it to run but since it is a an above ground pool water should freely flow to the pump as it is installed below the water level.
When you try to turn on the pump, does it make a sound, pop the breaker or does it do nothing?
If the pump has a GFI on it the GFI might be wet causing it to be inoperable. Cut the plug end off and give it a new end. Always make sure that your new plug is always plugged into a GFI receptacle after replacing though…. ZAP!
It should come on even with out water. Same thing happen to me.
we treated the in ground pool with phosphate it recommends that the pool run for 48 hours straight, but noticed the pressure psi from 12 to 25, would we ruin the pump if left running all night and pressure becomes higher?
Thank you much for your quick response
Hi…. I have a new Hayward pump above ground pro matrix….. The water in the pump basket just misses the very top so there is stil a swirl of water….. It is almost full but not ….. Pressure perfect!…. Hoses changed… Everything seems tight…..no air bubbles in return….. Is this ok???
If pressure is fine and there are no leaks then I would leave it alone. You can try poking around, but if it is not broke, don’t fix it.
I have the same issue with the water looking like it’s just barely to the top of the pump, but my pressure is low.
The reason you pressure is low is likely because the air is causing it to be low. Check the line for pinhole air leaks and be sure the water level is at the correct height for the skimmer.
I forgot to turn off the pump while cleaning the filter. Now the pump won’t run. HELP!
I’ll need more information to go on than that. Did the pump run dry? Or, did the pump get splashed with water from a leaking filter?
Did a breaker trip? If the pump ran dry, is there any obvious damage to the pump housing like melted parts?
Hi Matthew, I wanted to ask about air in the top of the pump. Brand new pump installed, new pipes needed and can see air in top of pump. No water leaks but I assume this must mean small air leak in new pipe seals. Should I ask the installer back?
The cause for concern is the size of the bubble. Some pumps have a few air bubbles that bounce around the top of the lid. If you have a couple of penny sized bubbles in your pump lid, then it probably is not an issue to be concerned about. But if the bubble is the size of most or all of the pump lid then you have a problem and need to find the leak.
If your bubble is big, have your installer come back out, or read this how-to guide: How to Identify and Correct Air Leaks
Wow. Thanks for such prompt reply. There are 4 quarter sized bubbles. I was worried the water would leak out overnight due to airleak but it held. There are now lots of tiny bubbles in chlorinator which I didn’t observe with last pump. There must be an air leak right? I can’t clear the air with the filter bleed but it doesn’t appear to be getting larger.
I’d have to see the lid/bubbling to have better judgment of what is going on. If you can post a picture, I can try to point you in a direction.
i’m having to back wash ny pump every 4 hrs or its stops pumping what could be the problem
Do you have a sand or de filter? Do you have algae, or working on clearing up your pool? If you have sand, how old is the sand? I have more questions but this is a good start.
We also have this guide: How to Reduce High Pressure in Your Pool System
Hi what part is Supposed to suck the water out inside the pool
Do you mean the skimmer or the main drain?
In my experience if pump basket is not full of water and flow is poor u may have a clogged impellar..
Can taking my filter out and cleaning it off while pump is on, cause cloudiness in my pool? We have tried EVERYTHING…for clear water again and still get a cloudy pool. We have a 13x33in upground pool. I noticed when my husband took the filter out (while pump was on) he put it back and all the stuff shot back out. I told him well that could be our problem???
When was the last time you had you water tested?
Also, have you used floc and vac? That should pull all the gritty particles out of your pool water.
Hi, I have set up new Bestway damd filtration and missed the part, that must be filled up with water and accidently put it straight way for filtration. It just made big noise and stop immediately. I am wandering it run dry.whay can I do with it now?
Thanks
Install it correctly, see if it works. If the unit is broken then you can see if the dealer will replace it or if you need to purchase a replacement.
The same thing happened to me. It was actually around the time we applied floc. We finished pouring the floc and ran the pump on filter all night to see if it would work. This morning we backwashed, but it’s still the same. It looks as if there was a lot of sand around the edges of the pool and the water is really cloudy. I set up my Dolphin to vacuum the pool, hopefully it’ll at least get rid of the sandy walls 😞.
I have found when I put flocc in && run the filter on “recirculate” for 2 hours then turn everything off for 48 hours my pool has never been more blue && every single thing sunk to the bottom. Vacuumed to waste && I repeated a couple times cause the house I just moved into the pool was AWFUL
How green was your pool water before?
I’ve been at it for 6 days now and I cannot see down 4 inches looks like a lake water. 4 gallons of liquid chlorine didnt do a thing.
I suggest using one of these two options: How to Clean a Green Pool? or How To Drain and Clean A Swimming Pool
System needs to be put on service. That shuts the system down. You will be able to hear water leaving filter as you loosen top to get to actual filter. Unscrew top slowly and when you take top off, filter lifts out for easy cleaning with a hose. Reverse what you did and push service button once, if system doesn’t start, push again and it should start
Never remove filter while pump is running, filter sediment in filter tank will return to pool if u do. Clean filter drain tank..
Why would you do that. Simple to unplug for 1 minute and replace before starting again. That is just pure laziness
helpful comment. more please
You need to vacuum your pool to waste. Vacuum so the water and algae vacuum out of the pool. You will lose a little water but that’s how you do it.