For the most part, pool owners understand the concept of variable speed pumps. However, when it comes to the best setup for variable speed pool pumps, pool owners are somewhat in the dark. We want to change that.
In this blog article, we provide tips on how to set up your variable speed pool pump to achieve the greatest performance and energy savings. Overall, we want pool owners to feel comfortable purchasing a new pool pump knowing they are capitalizing on the most savings.
How To Save Money Using A Variable Speed Pump
If you are a pool owner and looking to save money on your energy bill, a variable speed pump is the way to go. A variable speed pump allows you to lower the motor’s RPMs to the minimum speed needed to turn the water over or to maintain your pool equipment. Using a variable speed pump can cut associated energy costs up to 90%. When you run the pump at lower speeds, that means you’re using less kW, or energy, from your power company. This translates to a lower energy bill.
Once you have a variable speed pump on your pool, the goal is to find the lowest RPMs at which you can run the pump yet sustain a clean pool.
Peak Hours Vs. Off-peak Hours
Did you know that there are times of the day when electricity is cheaper? Throughout the day, the demand for electricity fluctuates. As a result, so does the price. The cost of generating electricity is highest during peak hours.
Depending on where you live and the power company, peaks hours may change. However, for the most part, peak hours usually fall between 9 am and 9 pm. In order to confirm the peak hours in your area, we recommend calling your power company.
Sometimes, local electric companies have a special program that offers special pricing. The program usually offers discounted rates during off-peak hours, like nights and weekends. However, in many cases, customers have to inquire about the program as they do not offer it as a standard alternative.
Running your pool equipment during off-peak hours can dramatically affect your overall bill. In a good way, too. This applies to your home appliances, as well.
Tip: If possible, operate your pump during your local designated off-peak hours. This is sound advice for a pump of any speed and regular household appliances. Off-peak hours will vary slightly.
When To Run A Pump On Low And High Speeds
In terms of the best setup for a variable speed pump, pool owners specifically want to know how long to run their pump at high and low speeds. Unfortunately, every pool is different, making it tricky to provide a template-style formula that fits every pool scenario. However, through trial and error, you can program your variable speed to operate at its highest efficiency for your pool.
Best Setup For Variable Speed Pumps
For the first few weeks of owning a variable speed pump, you might be playing with the settings until you find the correct balance between RPM’s and the length of time. First, we do not recommend running your variable speed pump at 3450 RPMs for 24 hours a day. It’s unnecessary and frankly, it defeats the entire purpose of a variable speed pump. The idea is to try and run your variable speed pump at the lowest RPMs as possible while still filtering your pool water properly. If you are running your pool pump to filter and turn your water over, we recommend using the middle and lower speed settings.
For example, for the first few days, you might run the pump at 2500 RPMs to see what your pool looks like. Next, you might dial it down to 1600 RPMs. If after a few days your pool starts to look cloudy or hazy, you can set the pump to run at 2000 RPMs. Every pool setup is different. This makes trial and error the easiest way to find your pump’s sweet spot.
On the other hand, pool owners use the high-speed settings when the pool needs more flow. This can include when you’re cleaning your pool, operating a salt chlorine generator, or using any water features like jets, in floor cleaners, or waterfalls. It’s important to pay attention to the minimum flow rates required for these items. In many instances, pool owners think their variable speed pump is not strong enough. However, in reality, they’re running their variable speed pump below the minimum RPMs.
Tip: Don’t be afraid to tinker with the RPM settings until you find your pool’s sweet spot. Also, familiarize yourself with your pool equipment and the minimum GPM each unit mandates for operation.
Example of Variable Speed Settings
Example 1:
Generally, I run my equipment at 1700 RPMs for 10 hours. I run this with the saltwater generator set at 50% for 10 hours. In my case, 1700 RPM’s is the minimum I can do to reliably activate the saltwater generator and filter the pool. Also, there’s a cleaning mode (on a feature) set to 2500 RPMs. Typically, I run that in conjunction with the filter mode for 2 hours a day to get the crud off the water and into the skimmer. I also have a high speed set to 3100 RPMs that I use when I add chemicals or after the family uses the pool. I only use it when necessary and turn it on manually when needed.
Example 2:
During the off-season, we aim to turn the water over once.
7 – 8 a.m. Low speed (to startup)
8 – 10 a.m. High speed (to sweep and skim)
10 a.m. – 12 p.m. Low speed (to filter)
5 – 8 p.m. Medium speed (to enjoy)
8 p.m – 7 a.m. Off
Example 3:
4 – 4:30 a.m. High speed (3450 RPMs to ensure the pump sufficiently primes- non-peak hours)
4:30 – 12 p.m. Mid speed (2200 RPMs- non-peak hours)
12 p.m. – 6 p.m. Low speed (1800 RPMS- peak hours)
The total run time is 14 hours. I run my pump this long because I live in Florida and it is consistently hot. In colder states, you probably wouldn’t have to run the pump as long.
General Guidelines
In most scenarios, pool owners establish specific time frames to operate their pump at high speed to correlate with any functions that require more flow. If possible, the time frames correlate to your areas off-peak times. Once you complete those tasks, you can lower the speed settings. Variable speeds take advantage of the pump affinity law. In short, it means that you can run your pump half as fast, twice as long and filter the same amount of water for a fraction of the price. If you cut your RPM’s in half, from 3450 to 1725, you actually get about 75% energy savings. (Spoiler Alert: I am not an engineer! The concept is much more complex.)
When it comes to the best set up for variable speed pool pumps, it depends on the pool and pool equipment. At the end of the day, if you’re consciously spending more money on a variable speed pump, you should reap the long-term benefits. With our general rules, guidelines, and tips, you will. Having a better idea of how to utilize the high and low speeds guarantees you more savings.
If you have questions about your variable speed pump, give us a call. We’re here to help you enjoy your pool and save you money at the same time.
I have a Hayward VS900, SWG and a Heliocol solar system on a small 5850 gal pool.
In general, what speed should I be aiming for to get the most out of my solar system? I live in sunny Arizona but during the spring/fall months the solar sometimes can’t keep up. The pump runs usually 9 hrs/day. I keep the speed low (2933 and 2070) in the mornings and evenings mainly for “quiet time”. The pump now runs at 3450 during the time the solar diverter valve is on. These are just shot-in-the-dark speeds for me. Is it more efficient to run a lot of water fast thru the solar panels or less water at a slower “trickle”?
Nothing?
You want the water to flow to be on the slower side, so the water has time to absorb heat. You don’t want a trickle because then you will not have the volume of heated water to change the temp. It is a delicate balancing act. If you want to find a more efficient speed, you will need to do the old trial and error method.
My husband and I moved to a new home in the Sacramento area with a 25K gallon lagoon pool with a waterfall. We’ve never owned a pool before. It doesn’t have a heater, so we don’t use it in the winter. The previous owner didn’t run the waterfall much, so it caused some problems with the skimmer and we had to prime the skimmer. So my husband usually runs the waterfall for a few minutes every day. My questions is, does it matter if the waterfall runs when the filter is running? I saw a comment above mentioning a fountain losing water. We do have a leak in our pool and we have to keep filling it so the skimmer doesn’t stop working. Could the loss of water have anything to do with the waterfall being run when the filter is off?
If the leak is due to a crack in the waterfall pump’s plumbing then yes it could be the cause of water loss. Is the waterfall pump and plumbing completely independent of the pump filter system?
We also have guides on how to find water leaks, see the following: Dye Test For Swimming Pool Leaks My Pool Is Only Losing Water When My Pump Is Running
Debbie: Trying to find the water leak might take some trial and error. If you don’t see an obvious leak it may need a professional’s opinion (costs big bucks). I did some trial and error. I ran my waterfall by itself for 1 hour and noticed a big leak behind waterfall rock formations. So i shunted water away from that waterfall to other areas of waterfall and it reduced my leak. I then ran just the pool and not the waterfall and realized I barely lost water. Past few winters with the freeze guard both my pool pump and waterfall pump would go off at 37 and were on all the time so I was out there filling water everyday to keep level above skimers. It was painful. This year I had pool company winterize the waterfall and shut it down and set freeze guard to 35 ( I live in Dallas so sufficient here). My pool pump is set for few hours at night on medium rpms and I barely ever step out to fill my pool. Rainfall every 2 weeks fills the pool up for me. If you find your waterfall is the issue…then you might be able to get it winterized and just leave the pool pump running. Check with a local reliable pool company. Good luck.
Hi! Just upgraded from a 1.5hp single speed to a 2.7hp Jandy VSFlopro. I only got the 2.7 since it was a $300 sweetheart deal. I am struggling a bit because it seems like I should run at ~1/2 of the max RPM (i.e., 1,750 of 3,425) to equate to my old 1.5hp (which moved the water fine). Is this faulty logic?
My schedule has been 3 hours at 750, 2 hours at 1,750 (clean), and 3 hours at 750. ~15k gallons with 2 skimmers and a small waterfall.
The RPM and flow rate are not in lockstep with one another. A pump that pushes 90gallons per minute at max speed (3450 RPM) may only push 15-20 GPM on low speed (1725 RPM).
Run times also are adjusted for chlorine need. In the winter, you may be able to run the pool a couple of hours a day, whereas you need to run it for 8-12 hours in summer. No one will be able to prescribe a specific run schedule for your specific pool. The process of finding the right schedule for your pool is usually done with a test and see method. Let your pump run for 8 hours on 1725 RPM (or the setting of your choice) for a couple of days, test that the water chemistry levels are in their proper ranges. If the chemical levels look good, either go down in RPMs or run time. then repeat the process.
If the chemistry looks bad after a scheduled test, adjust either the RPMs or run time.
Hi. Can I get recommendations for how many rpm I should be running when heating the pool? I have a gas heater.
It is as simple as setting the heater/heat pump to come on, then starting your pump at a low RPM, scaling up the motor until the heating unit kicks on. It is the exact same process for figuring the salt chlorine system minimum flowrate.
There’s not much of a trick to it; find the minimum RPM then work from there. I would suggest finding the minimum RPM, then adding a few hundred RPM to compensate for the filter as it gets dirtier restricting flow.
Hi! Just upgraded from a 1.5hp single speed to a 2.7hp Jandy VSFlopro. I only got the 2.7 since it was a $300 sweetheart deal. I am struggling a bit because it seems like I should run at ~1/2 of the max RPM (i.e., 1,750 of 3,425) to equate to my old 1.5hp (which moved the water fine). Is this faulty logic?
My schedule has been 3 hours at 750, 2 hours at 1,750 (clean), and 3 hours at 750. ~15k gallons with 2 skimmers and a small waterfall.
I read different comments about running a pool pump at night. My pool people always tell me that you run a pump during the daylight hours because the circulation of the water works best with the sun shining on the water. I have about a 19000 gallon inground pool and my pump runs at 1700 RPM for 8 hours a day. Does a good job keeping the water looking good.
The only time Irun my pump at night is when the temperature gets down to freezing during the winter.
The only issue I see is you not getting a full circulation of that 19000 gallons. A pool should cycle all 19000 gallons per day. Amount of Gallons in the pool – 19000 for you and divide by pump speed 1700 and you get 11.176 I’ll round up to 11 1/2 hours at 1700 gets you a full cycle.
I have a variable with 3 timer modes on it. I always prefer more, not less water circulation so I go 1700 for 5 hours then I ramp it up to 2000 for 4 hours then I bring it back down to 1700 for 2 more hours. I still run it the 11 hours but get more circulation of the water.
I just installed a Pentair SuperFlo 1 1/2 HP pump. I was using a 1 1/2HP fix rate pump for the last 25 years. I have a Jacuzzi 24T 60GPM max sand filter and a RayPak 300K heater (which I only turn on manually when I needed it. No other equipment or water features. I have been running the pump at 1800 for 8 hours and 1500 for the other 16.
I am concerned about the sand filter. I have been told the slower the water the better the sand filter will clean. I have been also told that the sand filter should always run between 8 to 12 PSI. At 1800 it is at 10 PSI. However, at an RPM setting below 1800 the sand filters PSI is below 8. AT 1000 RPM it is only 2 PSI. Is there a minimum PSI that I should keep the sand filter at so it filters properly? If its 8-12PSI then all these great discussions about running your pump at 1000 to 1500 RPMs would not apply to my system. Thanks in advance for the help.
If it is a robotic cleaner, it would not matter what your pump schedule is, as they are independent of one another. If you have a suction cleaner, you need to test the RPMs needed to get your cleaner to work, then you know which RPM to set it on.
I just got the Jandy VSPro 1.85 HP Variable Speed pump and I’ve experimented with it for the last couple weeks. (The old single speed pump was dying.)
During the winter, what speed would you run the Freeze Guard Feature? You could go as low as 600 rpm.
I find my Polaris 380 (With Booster Pump) gets TOO MUCH power above about 1800 rpm. Tail foam tip flies off, even connections in the hose line separate. So I’m going to have to adjust the Polaris by unscrewing the pressure relief valve and tail screw.
But using this pump’s “Auxiliary” connection (basically 2 optional relay switches that activate at 1725 or 2250 rpm) to power the Polaris booster pump means I can’t go above 1725 rpm without turning on a second pump. I thought a cut-off switch to the booster pump would help. The pool installer didn’t want to wire a new switch. They weren’t electricians. I’ll hire one to fix it. You need a good electrician to take advantage of all the features of Jandy’s phone app. (I could even have him wire up a second relay to shut down the booster remotely with a key fob — the pool is a good distance from the house. 😉
At 1725 the Polaris runs great and I can activate it or reduce the RPM’s and stop it from my phone. But that doesn’t always clear the leaves on the surface to the skimmer.
Mine is a vinyl pool (around 25,000 gal) with a sand filter. I don’t yet see any reason to run this pump at 3450, the max speed. Seems to be cleaning the pool well. Currently on a 12-hour daily schedule at 1700 rpm.
Hey Steve, How many gallons in your pool? Thanks!
South Texas here. I just added a 1.5 hp variable speed to my 25,000 gallon pool. I also switched from pressure side to a separate 3/4hp pump for a Polaris cleaner. It made sense at the time to separate the two (and I always had issues with the pressure side cleaner). I was thinking about running the Polaris at night for few hours and the main pump during the day. But in thinking about that, the tail of the Polaris will be dusting the pool bottom and the skimmers won’t be running much at all to filter the kicked up dirt. So should I kick it into cleaning mode for the whole time the Polaris is running then leave it on at a low speed? Maybe both from 4am to 8am, then low speed filter from 8am to 6pm (adjusting as needed for water quality)? Thoughts? Thanks!
I’ve added a variable speed pump and am curious if any testing has been done to identify the best flow rate for filters. Mine is a Hayward DE. I understand the concept of faster water flows at higher pump speeds, but is the filter equally efficient at each flow rater or pump speed?
Most filters list an “optimal flow rate” either on the tank or the manual. You would need a flowmeter to figure out what RPM the motor should be set to achieve that flow rate.
Our pool lady suggested that we run our pump on high speed as we try to get it clean for summer. I have a Pentair super flow VS variable speed pump. Can you put me to directions on how to make a stay at 3450 for 24 hours?
I did a quick search for the owner’s manual and the process on how to customize a run schedule is on page 8: http://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/superflo-vs-342001-pump-manual.pdf
Hi. I have a VSP and a heat pump connected. Never know what speed and how long to keep this on for. Feel like every time I play around with it I never think it’s Right. I live on Long Island in New York. Any thoughts or recommendations? My heater usually doesn’t turn on until around 1750 rpms.
It sounds like you already found the RPM threshold to get your heater to operate. If it doesn’t work all the time, then you may have something restricting the flow like a dirty filter. You can up the RPMs to compensate for the filter becoming increasingly dirty.
Is it ok to run a Pentair Superflo VS for 24hrs a day at it’s lowest RPM settings as a way to guard against freeze protection during the colder winter months?
It depends on the temps and the plumbing of your system. 600 RPMs is not very fast, so if the pipe is long enough and is exposed to really low temps, you likely need to bump that up to 1000 RPMs or more.
Recommendation for running vgreen 165? Just got it. We have a large pool, 33,000 gallons, no other water features. We live in California and it gets a a lot of sun, but I’d like to avoid our peak time (4-10pm) at a high or medium speed if possible and have that time period be the lowest. Any help is appreciated!
Ashley, you just have to follow the guidelines we mention in the article. You can see the examples Charlie laid out in the last part of the article, where he discusses how to pick your run speeds and times.
What do you recommend a 10k gallon screened in pool with skimmer and cleaning bot? I was thinking 12 hrs a day 900 rpm and 2 hrs in the middle for the bot to operate efficiently as lower speeds don’t give the bot the adequate suction. Also have a salt system. I’m looking to balance efficiently with effectiveness. Is 2 hrs sufficient for the bot and skimmer to do it’s job? Also curious what speeds and time at speed others run for salt conversation to chlorine?
When going from high speed to low speed or the other way around on a schedule. Is it better to have the pump off for a few minutes before changing the speed? For example from 12pm -2pm I run the pump on high starting at 2pm the schedule changes to low. Would it be better to start the low speed schedule at 2:05pm and have it off for 5 minutes. Thanks for all your help
I’m new to pool care so I’m busy learning. I have an 18000 gallon pool in southern Florida with a hot tub that flows down to the pool. The pool guy set the variable speed pump at 3200 24/7. My questions:
1. Can I connect a robotic cleaner to the only skimmer and leave it? (I leave the house for weeks at time.)
2. Is my #1 concern turning the water over at least once a day?
Any help and additional advice is greatly appreciated.
Suction cleaners require a certain flow rate for them to operate correctly. So, during those times your cleaner should be working, I would set the VS to a speed that allows it to do so.
Your pump only being set to 3200 RPM completely negates having a variable speed motor, as we cover in this guide. You should take the time to figure out the RPM necessary to keep your pool clean, while also keep energy usage down.
The water should be turned over at least once to keep the pool properly chlorinated/sanitized.
Size of pool, bather load and type, temperature and type of pump all effect filtration cycle.
Generally,
Filtration 1000 RPM without SWG for X number of hours per day (.25-2 turnovers a day). Example: San Diego in August, 20K gallon, high head pump, would go for 10-12 hours at 1000
SWG then set a second speed schedule so it kicks up till flow light goes out and run at 100%
Auto cleaner, 2200 for 30 minutes. Observe cleaner and skimmer for action. Adjust accordingly.
I love in Florida, have a pool cage so not a lot of debris. I have a Hayward suction auto pool cleaner attached. I have a Hayward variable speed pump and currently run it for about 5 hours during the day at 3000 rpms. The suction/ skimmer valve is about 90% suction to get the correct wheel RPM on the cleaner. This is about a 12000 gal pool. I would like to be able to run the pump at different times and speeds but at lower speeds the cleaner will not operate. Any suggestions?
If you want to run the pump at lower speeds then you would need to remove the cleaner from the suction line. The cleaner does not need to be connected all the time for a pool to work and clean itself properly. Use the cleaner when there is enough debris to warrant it.
Get a VacMate and you can run a high RPM cleaning cycle plus the low RPM cycles as you would like.
Douglas, I purchased a robotic cleaner and I love it. 12,000 gallon pool, and I’m in Florida as well, with a cage. The robotic cleaner does a really nice job, and there are no hoses to keep connected etc. and runs off your electricity. They claim it’s cheaper than running the cleaner by a pool pump. Dolphin nautilis was the one I chose but there are several on the market.
I, also, leave my pool cleaner attached at all times, except for shocking. But it still works with my pump at 1600rpm and the diverter between the suction line and the skimmer about at the 50% mark.
I do have the pump kick up to 2200 for 90 minutes starting at 1am for a more thorough cleaning.
Pool: ~18,000 gallons
Pump: Pentair Intelliflo 3hp
Cleaner: “The Poolcleaner”
So maybe you need to look for a more efficient pool cleaner. Look for one marketed to work with low flow.
Variable speed pump love it, on 1700 minimum unless using vac or for a quick boost.
Anyone have magic stream pentair fountains? If the pump shuts off the fountains keep running and overflow from the base I woke up and the pool was half empty. Cant set up Pentair to automatically shut off fountains before turning off the pump? Unless of course I have them set on the timer, but if I turn them on and forget they don’t shut off when the pump shuts off?? Makes no sense.
I agree, Brian. My installers for the Jandy 1.85 hp VS pump with a wireless controller and iAqualink phone app didn’t quite understand why you need a “cut-off” switch before connecting power to the auxiliary relays onboard the pump. In my case, I run usually hours a day at 1700. If I want to automatically start up my Polaris booster pump, I only need to bring the speed up to 1725 and “auxiliary 1″ will fire up the booster pump.” I can turn if off from the iAqualink app in the same way, bringing down the speed to BELOW 1725. But this morning, after heavy rains, I want to backwash the filter at a higher speed…I have to disconnect the Polaris cleaner, manually set the filter function to backwash and then run TWO PUMP motors…the main and the booster! No sense at all. I’m asking a qualified electrician to wire in a cutoff switch that will allow me to run at any speed without having to needlessly power that extra Polaris booster pump.
Yes
I think this article is great and want to thank the Author for putting it together, I have two Pumps on my System, and has they stated my SWG seems to need about 1800 rpm, to activate, Also the pool builder put my skimmers and my popups on the same pump.
I need the popups to run for a few hours to push the Dirt down to the main drain but then want my skimmers running the rest of the day at a lower speed, so this article gave me some great jumping off places for adjusting the RPMS, to get constant flow, during my off peak.
Hi! Just upgraded from a 1.5hp single speed to a 2.7hp Jandy VSFlopro. I only got the 2.7 since it was a $300 sweetheart deal. I am struggling a bit because it seems like I should run at ~1/2 of the max RPM (i.e., 1,750 of 3,425) to equate to my old 1.5hp (which moved the water fine). Is this faulty logic?
My schedule has been 3 hours at 750, 2 hours at 1,750 (clean), and 3 hours at 750. ~15k gallons with 2 skimmers and a small waterfall.
I thought it was very helpful too. We have the Energy Select Program from Gulf Power here in Panama City Beach, FL. It costs twice as much to run the pump during high time. I have the pool pump running low from 6pm-3am (medium time is from 6p-11pm), then crank it to 3200 from 3am-5am (low time is 11pm-6am). I wanted to do some research to make sure I was running it enough. Think I’m going to run it a bit longer in the am’s. This article was so helpful. These people in this thread are ridiculous.. if it’s not helpful to you, then keep it moving. Geez.
I call BS! Few of us run our pumps at 3 and 4 different speeds during the day…We find one speed to cover our needs and leave it. You have water features you need x amount of rpm. Unless you retired and bored and you make this a hobby then maybe you have your pump set to play music for you but not here
Doug, you can set these schedules to automatically run. You don’t have to change the speeds manually everyday. That would be ridiculous.
I have a vsp and I was wondering what should I run my rpm for my cleaner, water future and pump filter at? And how do I set a high speed for chemicals and after family like you I only have 3 aux slots on my z4
Uh, variable speed pumps are programmable and you can do manual changes as necessary.
The article doesn’t tell you to run your pump at 3 or 4 different speeds during the day (though I do like the idea of general filtering at low speed topped off with a couple of hours of higher speed to help skim the surface better). The concept is to program different pump control buttons at different speeds for different purposes. On my pump, I can set up 4 different functions on 4 buttons: 1. standard low-speed cleaning 2. higher speed cleaning 3. A program I’m going to use for when I add chemicals 4. A program for when I run my robot cleaner.
And that’s just my setup. You can set up the programs/buttons however you please.
Hi Gary, what program do you use when you run your robot cleaner?
Thanks!
Do you have a vsp
I disagree the amount of money it cost to run my pumps during peak hours is enough to make me want to adjust the schedule.
Doug I have 4 different settings a day on my multi-speed speed pump. The speed changes are pre/programmed. The 4 speed pump saves over $75 a month VS running a single speed at 3400 Rpm. My minimum speed is 1000RPM and max is 3250RPM (for cleanup – never has needed to use). The pool cleaner runs at 2600RPM for 6 hours automatically. Then 1500RPM for 8 hours. Then 1000RPM the 10 hours balance.
My pump runs 24/7 year round. My water stays crystal clear. I have had a salt pool with a variable speed pump for over 8 years.
A year later, and a couple weeks into my Variable Speed experience, this post stands out. One speed is pretty much all we need. Then, manually (or via phone app, in my case) we can increase speed to improve surface skimming and pool cleaning.
I’m retired and, yes, I like to play with the app that runs the pump…but a lot of this seems to be “boys with toys.” But that’s just me! 😉
Hi-
All things being equal, is it better to run the pump 24/7 at a speed that will turn the pool over the desired number of times per day, or run the pump at a higher speed to turn it over the same number of times and then have it shut off for a few hours (both from an economic as well as a filtration standpoint)? I’ve had mine in for about three weeks now, and been running it 24/7. I put a flow meter in so I could set it to the desired GPM, with a couple hours at a higher speed, a few hours at a pretty low speed, and 16 hours at a rate that will turn the pool over once. I do have to bump it up a bit if I want to run the heater, but I do that manually as needed.
As far as filtration goes, the water looks good with the current schedule (though the pump basket doesn’t look “full” when it’s running on low speed – doesn’t seem to be sucking air, so I assume that’s OK).
Thanks,
Patrick
What RPM would you suggest for my Pentair Superflo 1.5 HP 115/208-230v pump attached to my 8,000 gallon pool?
I currently run it at night from midnight to 6 a.m. , yet at 3100 RPM, which I’m sure is extraneous.
Could you advise me on a more apt flow rate/RPM for my Pentair 1.5 HP VSP?
Thank you! :)) – Brett
Brett, that is basically what the entire article was covering.
I did not find the article particularly helpful.
We have a Pentair Intelliflo for several years and it is beside an ocean beach in Southern Mexico so warm all year round.
Winters we may turn it off at night in hopes of keeping the water a bit warmer. Summers we run it on slowest speed as that seems to clean it well enough and run 24 hours a day actually trying to cool the water.
If pool has a higher load of bathers we do run it at a 2nd set speed.
3rd higher spped, During daily vacuuming we run it at a speed that vacuums well but does not stick the vacuum to the pool bottom due to excess suction and speed.
Full speed only used for backflushing the filter. However as lines are 2″ and I read 2″ Max out at about 80 gallons per minute why is pump stated as 140 gallons per minute as the pump connections are 2″ ?
Given this is the case it seems somewhere about 2500 watts might be the limit or perhaps the maximum capable as per a flow meter which we do not have in place?
I’m a little confused, where did wattage come into play in your comment? It just kind of popped up at the end, mentioned with a flowmeter.
Secondly, your pool sounds great but not everybody lives on the southern coast of Mexico, on the ocean. Different climates make for differing filter demands. That’s why I have repeatedly laid out below the “test and see” method when someone asks how to set up their variable speed schedule.
Also, 80 GPM is the maximum recommended flow rate, not the absolute max for 2″ PVC. For pool purposes, you want to keep the flow rate lower to reduce strain on the system.