Whenever you make a high- value purchase, you never expect anything to go wrong with it, at least not right away. As consumers we assume that the more expensive a product is, the better the quality, and therefore the longer the lifespan. The logic seems legit to me. The only downside to a product failing further down the line (as opposed to earlier) is sometimes you can’t find the manual or any matching paper work to help you either with the warranty or to diagnose the issue.
It becomes especially difficult if the product, like the Jandy AquaPure Chlorine Generator, only displays an error code, but not necessarily what the error code means nor solutions to the problem. If you purchased the unit a year ago, it’s quite possible you may have misplaced or thrown out the manual. How will you diagnose the issue then?
Here at INYO Pools we come across this situation a lot. Customers call with error codes, but they are unsure what they actually mean or even how to proceed to fix the issue. With that in mind, we wanted to create an easier way for homeowners to diagnose their Jandy AquaPure. Let’s explore the codes, their meanings, and possible solutions together.
You know what’s frustrating for any pool owner? It is to come home from a long day at work only to discover that one of the pieces of your pool equipment is malfunctioning. You know what’s even more frustrating? Not knowing what the issue is. This happens to a lot of pool owners who may own the Jandy AquaPure Chlorine Generator. It’s not a testimonial of how bad the unit is,( Jandy is a great manufacturer), but rather how negligent, here I include myself, we can be with product manuals and documents. Who actually reads those, anyway? So, which error code is your Jandy unit displaying?
LEVEL 1 SERVICE CODES
Level 1 service codes are more common than level 2 codes and can typically be troubleshooted by the homeowner and a Jandy technical representative. Although you can troubleshoot and determine the issue yourself, we do not recommend that you replace any internal parts if you do not feel comfortable.
Utilize the chart below to help identify the error code, the possible cause, and corrective action. We offer several how to guides that should assist you in diagnosing issues as well as replacing certain parts.
| Code Number | Possible Cause | Corrective Action |
|---|---|---|
| 120 | Low current in forward direction to the cell. | 1. Clean or replace cell if necessary 2. Check DC cord |
| 121 | Low current in reverse direction to cell. | 1. Clean or replace cell if necessary 2. Check DC cord |
| 123 | Extremely low current to cell | 1. Clean cell if necessary 2. Check DC cord. |
| 124 | Higher than normal current to cell | 1. This is an indication of a bad back board. 2. Troubleshoot with Jandy or a licensed professional. |
| 125 | Cell needs to be cleaned. | 1. Troubleshoot your tri-sensor to ensure it is working properly. 2. Clean or replace cell if necessary. |
| 126 | Low current in forward direction and VAC input voltage below 100/200 VAC | 1. Check input voltage, transformer, and back board voltages. 2. Troubleshoot with Jandy or a licensed professional. |
| 127 | Low current in reverse direction and VAC input voltage below 100/200 VAC | 1. Check input voltage, transformer, and back board voltages. 2. Troubleshoot with Jandy or a licensed professional. |
| 144 | Low Salinity (below 2.0 gpl) | 1. Adding salt to your swimming pool 2. Add salt to pool to achieve 3.0 gpl |
| 145 | High Salinity (above 4.0 gpl) | 1. Recalibrate salt reading. 2. Backwash your filter if a DE filter is installed. 3. Partially drain your pool and dilute with fresh water until salinity level returns to 3.0. |
| 170 | Possible Front board service condition or unit not correctly wired to 115 VAC | 1. Typically caused by low AC voltage from back board. Check the transformer and back board. 2. Troubleshoot with Jandy or a licensed professional. |
| 171 | Possible backboard service condition | 1. Indication of a faulty board. 2. Troubleshoot with Jandy or a licensed professional. |
| 172 | Indicates a flow tri sensor service or flow sensor is unplugged. | 1. Clean the flow sensor, check for damage, and replace if necessary. 2. Perform diagnostic test on board to ensure the board isn't faulty. 3. If not the board, the culprit is more than likely the sensor. 4. How To Change a Jandy AquaPure Tri-Sensor |
| 173 | Low VAC input voltage and on board power supply is not regulated or unit not correctly wired. | 1. Unit may be wired to improper AC voltage. 2. Check for correct voltage. |
| 174 | Pool temperature is too high for operation of AquaPure | 1. Flow/ Salinity sensor indicates water temperature at sensor above 108 F. Reduce your water temperature. 2. Troubleshoot with Jandy or a licensed professional. |
| 175 | Flow sensor air lock condition or very low salinity | 1. Verify proper flow/temp/salinity sensor was installed properly. 2. Check salinity. Add if necessary. |
LEVEL 2 SERVICE CODES
Level 2 service codes are less common but can be more difficult to diagnose as some issues may cause more than one service code to appear. Some error codes, though, will require a licensed professional for proper troubleshooting.
| Code Number | Possible Cause | Other Codes It May Generate |
|---|---|---|
| 180 | Heating sensor element not heating. | Generates code 172- Flow sensor service |
| 181 | Flow sensor temperature- sensor failure. | Generates code 172- Flow sensor service |
| 182 | Salinity sensor sees less than .2 GPL of salt. Either there's no salt in the pool or sensor is air locked. | Generates Code 175- Flow sensor airlock |
| 183-186 | Flow salinity sensor temperature probe error codes. | 1.They all generates code 172- Flow sensor service is required. 2. Perform diagnostic test on board to ensure the board isn't faulty. If not the board, the tri-sensor is the culprit. 3. How To Change a Jandy AquaPure Tri-Sensor |
| 187 | Front board power supply is either too low or too high. | 1. Generates code 173- Low input voltage, IF code 188 is present. 2. Generates code 170 IF 188 is not present. |
| 188 | VAC input voltage too low. | Generates code 173 if code 187 is present |
| 189 | Relay not conducting in the forward direction. | Generates code 171- Back board service |
| 190 | Relay not conducting in the reverse direction. | Generates code 171- Back board service |
| 191 | High cell current (at upper limit of A/D converter) and cell voltage falls below 19V. | Generates code 170- Front board service |
| 192 | High cell current and cell voltage falls below 19V. | Generates code 171- Back board service |
| 193 | Measured significant cell current when SCR's were turned off. | Generates code 170- Front board service |
| 194 | Cell current is 85% lower than desired and cell voltage above 19V. | Generates code 125- The cell is dirty or needs replacement |
| 195 | Salinity invalid due to out of range measurements caused by front board error. | Generates code 170- Front board service |
Although the charts should help narrow down the root to the issue on your Jandy AquaPure unit, it may not completely answer all your questions or concerns. If you still have questions, please do not hesitate to give us a call at 877-372-6038 and if we don’t have an answer, we will get you in contact with someone who will.
I have AqualinkRS4, i lost power last night for few min, from than my pump and spa is a coming on automatically every few min, I could i stop and reset my pump for filter program for daily 8 hrs. dont need to program Spa, also let you know outside unit showing light LP.Please your advoce.
This is a completely different control than your basic AquaPure we are discussing in this guide. The more intricate automation systems like the AquaLink should be troubleshot with the manufacturer Jandy.
Hello. My inside panel says “no flow”. I’ve cleaned the basket and it went off. That was yesterday, but now today it shows “no flow” again. I unplugged the sensor and cleaned the plugs. “no flow” went away for a few minutes but now back on. There are NO error codes on the small board. Tomorrow I will clean the filters but am starting to think the sensor is bad…again. Replaced it 2 years ago. Thoughts?
I presume it is another faulty flow switch. Unfortunately, the pool industry has yet to design a stout flow switch that can hold up for as long as the control box and cell do.
I have aquapure 1400, not getting any codes my screen is dead, all i have is power on,
It sounds like you have a bad board, but to figure out which one you would need to do some deep troubleshooting using this guide: AquaPure Troubleshoot Guide
I have an Aquapure EI, it keeps saying “Test Cell”, I have replace with a new cell pod and still says the same thing…my salt & chlorine levels ( had them tested at pool store) are good as I was using chlorine tabs for backup until I got new pod installed. Any other ideas?
There is not much info on the Ei models for troubleshooting available to us as Jandy removed their goods from the web. You may want to contact them directly to see if they can provide further assistance.
Hello, I have a aqua pure 1400 with the code 170 I have cleaned the trisensor. That didn’t help, I replaced it with a used sensor from my pool guy. The one I put in was the black epoxy version with a adapter cable ( small circuit board) I get the same code 170. I am wondering if it is still could be the sensor, is there anything I can do to confirm what could be the fault. Thanks
I have a Jandy AquaPure 1400 and it’s giving me a 182/175 code. I have gone through all the trouble shooting and everything is within parameters but do not know what the “air lock condition” means. Air in the system…? I also get no reading when I depress the “salinity” button. Do I just need a new flow sensor. Mine is ~4years old. Thank you ahead of time.
Im getting 121 code regularly. Was getting a 120 also. I’ve done the acid clean, but the code did not go away. I’m thinking it’s time to replace (for the third time!), but I’d like to test the DC cable, as the manual suggests. Do you have the procedure for testing the DC cable?
Check page 23 on this Jandy AquaPure Troubleshooting Guide.
I can’t read the codes , I have a yellow light only showing on the screen.
I have a jandy. And its Reading (stand by).. at all times no error code.. is that normal???
It shouldn’t say standby when the unit is producing chlorine. Which Jandy system do you have? Is it an AquaPure, AquaPure Ei or other?
My chlormatic 3 is showing error code 110. I can’t find what this means anywhere!
Codes for the Chlormatic III start at 120 and go up from there. I do not see a code 110
i also have a code 110 and for some reason it isn’t in the manual.
it says production at 15% and cell reversing and it beeps and says 110
Everything I have read on the subject just shows that 110 is the type of cell. It could mean to replace the cell.
I get 110 code when I open my Jandy saltwater chlorinator, do you have any idea what I should do?
The AquaPure codebook starts at 120. Are you sure you have the Jandy AquaPure?
I have the AquaPure 1400 unit and may have an answer. Jandy tech support suggested it may be actually an error code 170 versus 110. I noticed on my LCD it’s switched between 110 and OU%. The error code 170 is a front circuit board fault and could be related to the top pixel not being illuminated for the 1”1”0 and O”U”%. Hope this helps as I couldn’t find any information on 110 error codes.
We have been having issues since pool opening the our Jandy saltwater chlorinator. 120 has been the main code we have been getting. We had Our pool come out and clean the chlorinator to no avail. I just replaced the chlorinator with a Jandy PLC 700, and put in new wiring and sensor. I am still receiving the 120 code error. Do you have any idea what we can do? Thank you.
Unfortunately, I don’t know where your 120-code is so stubborn. you might want to give a call to Jandy to see if they can troubleshoot it with you over the phone.
If you get an answer, please let us know what you find out.
I have a zodiac nature 2 fusion soft. On start up I have flow but display continually clashes between bo and 30%. Doing it for over an hour. Any ideas.
Sorted itself out after a couple of hours. The keys finally started responding and I was able to turn off boost. Strange.
I googled the Fusion Soft owner’s manual and the code means: bo – Boost – In “Boost” mode unit will operate at 100% production for 24 run time hours.
It doesn’t list anything about the flashing percentage.
My system is displaying ” test cell ” while running. No error number associated with this message. I have cleaned the cell and the message returns. I replaced the cell about 6 months ago so it is in good working order. Could this be a logic problem with the main board?
What are the chlorine levels in your pool? Are they in normal ranges?
I just replaced my Jandy Aquapure 1400 cell (only) because I was getting codes 125 and 194. It was suggested that I replace the cell, which I did. Now 24 hours after I replaced the cell, I get code 172 and 180. What is the problem?
To quote the article: 180 – Heating sensor element not heating. w/ code 172- Flow sensor service
Hi Jim
The same thing happened with my system
Can you let me know what you did to fix it?
Hello, I just replaced AquaPure 1400, sensor and cable and after install I am getting error code 194. From the comments above, this only happens when a cell is bad or needs to be replaced. However, mine is brand new and clean. Any thoughts? Could it be something else like the board or the program letter (currently its set to Program B like my old one)? Open to try things and ideas. Thanks in advance!
The 194 fault code is referring to low voltage, that can be an issue with a board or an issue with the power cable or power supply. I do not have much in terms of troubleshooting guides when it comes to the Jandy Aquapure. You may want to try TroubleFreePool.com’s forum or contact Jandy’s tech support line at 800-822-7933.
My aqua pure from 2009 beeps every minute. The arrive light is on. I do not want to spend the money it will cost to replace anything currently. The buttons on the outside box no longer work, so I can’t silence it that way. I don’t want to shut off the pump. I just want to disconnect the beeping sound. The flow senor wires don’t shut off the beeping. What wire is the disconnect? Thanks
I do not know, but it sounds like you have a bunch of issues with that unit and that beeping is just letting you know. You may want to call the manufacturer, who would have more idea on the circuitry of the unit.
And, why don’t you just turn it off for the season and get some chlorine tablets and a float to finish out the pool season?
I have an HH code, it says that means – Input has exceeded Maximum Range.
Is there a fix to this?
AquaPure’s owner manual states that the HH means the following: If a reading of HH appears, the salinity is above 4.5 to 6.5 gpl (depending on pool temperature) and is too high to measure correctly (at normal temperatures). Maintain Salinity between 3.0 and 3.5 gpl.
Take a water sample to a local pool store for testing. If it confirms the high salt, then you will have to drain and fill a portion of water. If your salt level is in normal ranges, then it is probably a bad sensor that needs replacing.
I reseated the DC cable on the cell and no longer having code 120 errors. The flow and cell on lights are lit but I do think the cell is producing any chlorine. One thing I noticed is the salinity is reading 2.4 but the salt reads 3200 at the pool store.
Going by the Jandy AquaPure owner’s manual, the suggested next step is: “Remove and clean flow/temp/salinity sensor contacts. Check flow/temp/salinity sensor cable for damage. See Section 6.4. Verify salinity with Myron “L” meter calibrated for NaCl, titration test units, or other salt meters. Please be aware that salt test strips have a large variance in readings (400 – 800 ppm)”
I have an older aquapure 1400 system. I had constant error code of 170. I ordered a new flow sensor and installed and it fixed that problem. Now I am getting an intermittent code 120 problem but the flow and cell lights (Green) are On. I read that Code 120 is forward low cell current. How can I determine if the system is producing chlorine or not. I didn’t check the DC CABLE to the cell and it appears to be OK. What else should I check?
I have an aqua pure 1400. Getting error codes 125-194. I cleaned the cell and still getting codes. I performed the following; The voltage going to the cell is 16 VDC. I also checked all the input voltage at the test points and +/- a few volts all the AC voltage is fine. I’m of the opinion that the board is bad considering the low DC voltage. Also, what amperage should be pulling on the cell?
Thank you,
Gary
Gary, the guide is pretty clear that you would need to replace the cell, see below.
194 -Cell current is 85% lower than desired and cell voltage above 19V. – Generates code 125- The cell is dirty or needs replacement
Since you have already cleaned the cell, the replacement is the next step. This is the Jandy AquaPure Troubleshooting Guide, it lists all the specifics you should need.
I’m getting 125 code however the salt cell in new last season and it was cleaned and stored with pool service company .
Also 154 code is coming up .I can’t find what that is
It sounds like you need to replace the trisensor if the cell is new and has been cleaner. I have checked the manual a couple of times, but there is no mention of a 154 error code on the AquaPure system. The only mention of the number 154 in the manual is the amount of salt needed for the specific pool size and current salinity levels.
I am getting an error reading of 170. I have replaced the front circuit board but it continues. What next?
The article mentions that in the first section:
170 – Possible Front board service condition or unit not correctly wired to 115 VAC – 1. Typically caused by low AC voltage from back board. Check the transformer and back board.
2. Troubleshoot with Jandy or a licensed professional.
I had the same problem. I replaced the entire APUREM Power Center. Still getting same message.
How do you do a diagnostic test on the board?
Are you looking for a general diagnosis procedure, or are you attempting to diagnose something specific?
Jandy also provides the AquaPure manual with troubleshooting section.
I have code 194 and 125 , I cleaned the cells with muriatic acid but still not working, do I need to replace the whole unit or just fix the inside ?
The cell needs to be replaced.
Did you get my question re the service 145 light?
It’s listed in the article:
145 High Salinity (above 4.0 gpl)
1. Recalibrate salt reading.
2. Backwash your filter if a DE filter is installed.
3. Partially drain your pool and dilute with fresh water until salinity level returns to 3.0.
yes high salt level
I have an error service light that pops up on occasion.
It appears I have been adding too much salt.
What is the best solution?