No one likes to get an error code on any piece of technology, especially on a Raypak heater. It means something is wrong and needs to be addressed soon. The panic really doesn’t set in until you realize error code BD1 means absolutely nothing to you. Error codes are both curses and blessings. Although an error message is never really a good thing, at least it’s an indication of what the problem is. Just imagine how much easier it would be to diagnose diseases if humans came with error codes.) Usually, depending upon the manufacturer, the manufacturer will include a manual detailing what may have triggered the error message and possible solutions to fix the issue. All error code guides are not made equal.
Still, even if the error codes were listed in the manual, what are the odds you know where that manual is? Unless you’re like my mom who keeps all her paperwork in a filing cabinet, the manual was probably tossed a week after your product was working properly. Heaters, though, can be rather tricky without the manual. I love the saying, “hindsight is 20/20,” because it’s so true. How many times did you wish you kept something after you have convinced yourself that you didn’t need it and threw it away? Or maybe it’s just me.
Our goal with this blog is to aid you in identifying and defining the error code on your Raypak heater and to provide possible solutions, as per the manufacturer. If we don’t have a solution or do not address your particular issue, it’s always best to contact Raypak directly.
The majority of Raypak heaters will have a digital readout. The digital readout helps pool owners read error codes on the actual heater. The models with digital thermostats are programmed to display a variety of status and diagnostic messages, depending on the operating conditions.
They are also equipped with onboard diagnostic controls. If there is a safety fault, a fault code will be displayed along with a service indication. (see pic on right) The word “SERVICE” will flash on and off if the PC board detects a known issue. The fault code is displayed in 3 big letters in the lower left of the display.
Below is a chart we created to help pool owners identify the meaning of Raypak’s fault code. It also includes possible solutions to fix the issue. Keep in mind, this is not a substitute for the installation and operation manual. Should you need further advice or technical information, please give Raypak a call at 805-278-5300.
| Fault Code Display | Definition | Possible Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| BD1 | Board failure | 1. If this code appears and stays on, turn off power to board at toggle switch and source, then re-establish power. 2. If code reappears, replace board as the main processor failed to start. |
| EEP | Indicates that memory failed to start on main processor. | 1. Turn off power at toggle switch and source, then re-establish power. 2. If code reappears, replace board as memory has failed. |
| FAN | Indicates the Pilot was lost, or the air pressure switch is not closed when required. | 1. Check for correct incoming power at fan relay- 120V or 240V and at fan motor. 2. If pilot is confirmed, check for 24V minimum out of fan relay to pressure switch. 3. If switch does not make when fan is operating, verify the tuning between fan housing and switch is connected and is not kinked. 4. Soft lock out after 3 attempts- automatically resets after 5 minutes. |
| FFL | Indicates a false flame signal. | 1. Check to see if pilot is staying lit after CFH is satisfied. If pilot stays lit, the pilot valve in the gas valve is hanging open. Replace gas valve. 2. If gas valve is working properly, problem lies with the pilot system or board. Turn power off at toggle switch. 3. Unplug ignition wire from board and pilot and remove green ground wire from burning tray. Clean and reconnect ground wire. 4. Turn power on. If no spark at ignition module, turn power off and replace the PC board. 4. If you saw a spark at Ignition Module, turn off the power and reconnect wires. 6. Turn power on and unit should fire. |
| GVC | No power detected at PV or MV when commanded. | 1. Turn power OFF and disconnect Ignition Wire and Gas Valve wires from board. 2. Power ON and watch for spark at module. 3. If no spark, turn power OFF, and replace board. 4. If spark is observed, turn off power and reconnect wires. The unit should fire. 5. If unit does not fire and code reappears, power OFF, disconnect valve wires from board and remove MV, PV, and ground wires. Clean and reconnect. 7. If unit does not fire, replace the gas valve. |
| GVO | Power found at either PV or MV at the incorrect time. | 1. Turn power OFF and disconnect Ignition Wire and Gas Valve wires from board. 2. Power ON and watch for spark at module. 3. If no spark, turn power OFF, and replace board. 4. If spark is observed, turn off power and reconnect wires. The unit should fire. 5. If unit does not fire and code reappears, power OFF, disconnect valve wires from board and remove MV, PV, and ground wires. Clean and reconnect. 7. If unit does not fire, replace the gas valve. 8. Low power to transformer can cause a GVO fault. |
| HL1 | The high-limit has exceeded 135F | 1. Possible excessive water temperature in the tube bundle. Once heater cools, high limits resets automatically. 2. Check for blockage in tubes. 3. Check for low water flow. 4. Check Unitherm governor- replace if necessary 5. check bypass assembly- replace spring or bypass if necessary |
| HL2 | The high-limit has exceeded 135F | 1. Possible excessive water temperature in the tube bundle. Once heater cools, high limits resets automatically. 2. Check for blockage in tubes. 3. Check for low water flow. 4. Check Unitherm governor- replace if necessary 5. check bypass assembly- replace spring or bypass if necessary |
| IGN | Ignition failure | 1. If the unit fails to hold a flame after 3 attempts, it will go into a hard lockout. Interrupt the power supply to clear the lockout and check for air in the gas line or not enough gas pressure. 2. IGN only appears after pilot has proved and main valve has been powered. |
| ILO | Ignition lockout (Propane units only) | 1. The heater has performed too many attempts to ignite the main burner and will take a short break. 2. Inspect pilot assembly. 3. If pilot assembly is OK, then the culprit may be your PC board. |
| PRS | Low water pressure | 1. Check water levels at skimmer face. (should be middle of skimmer face) 2. Ensure pump is running. 3. Check filter pressure. Backwash if necessary. 4. Check heater location- if more than 5 ft above or below water level- adjust pressure switch. |
| ROL | Thermal fuse tripped inside heater due to excessive heat or flame roll-out detected. | 1. Possible downdraft of burner flame. If sensor has red reset button, press button & determine cause. 2. Does your unit need a high wind stack? 3. Check wiring for burns- especially the ground wire and wires at gas valve. 4. Replace wires if necessary. |
| SNS | Temperature sensor is out of acceptable range. | 1. Water temperature is below 36F or above 110F 2. If the two thermistors are more than 2 degrees apart, the SNS code will appear. 3. Loose or corroded connection at P1. 4. If the sensor is not mounted all the way into the JACO fitting on the header, it may give a false reading. |
Hi… At my job, we have a model P2005-A and the error code is DELTA T. What does this mean? I’ve looked through all the recent messages and haven’t found anything similar. Can you help please?
That model looks to be a commercial boiler and not a pool heater we are referring to in the article. Your best bet would be to contact Raypak directly.
A simple search in google brought up an owner’s manual with all the codes for me. A little search goes a long way.
“Delta T – Captures the highest Delta T Temperature recorded. Press UP & DOWN buttons for 3 sec to clear this entry”
Hi,
I have a Raypak R406A that I have inherited when I bought this house. Since I moved in, it has displayed HL2 after running for a little while (hour or two). If I bump it up only a couple of degrees at a time, it will take longer to display HL2 but it will inevitably get there every time I use the heater. The hottest I have seen the temperature get befire displaying HL2 is about 92 degrees but I have triggered the HL2 in the 80s as well.
I already replaced the internal bypass kit which was toast, the temperature sensor which was still working but the thermowell was in bad shape, and the 2nd limit switch.
Ran an inspection camera down the tubes and they do not appear to be bad condition or have much buildup at all.
I took apart all of the jandy valves and they are all clear from obstructions.
I am out of ideas here. Please help.
Hello MD – I sent your question to a Raypak tech that works with Inyo, and he provided the following answer:
Thank you for your quick reply Matthew. I already replaced the 2nd high limit switch (assuming this is the switch that is closest to the right). I also replaced the U.G. and the internal bypass spring which was corroded. There did not appear to be any build up in the heat exchanger tubes.
The heater does cool down and produce hot water again but then the HL2 code returns after a while again. Is this safe to keep running this way?
Hello, I have a HL1 code, it keeps blinling service, what do I do?
What heater sensor do I need for a Raypak model # P-D206A-EN-C with a SNS code?
I believe it is the Temperature Sensor, IID Units – 009577F. The parts diagram for the ehater can be found here: Raypak Atmospheric Digital Heaters 206A-406A (11/01/04-Current) As shown in the article, the things to check:
1. Water temperature is below 36F or above 110F
2. If the two thermistors are more than 2 degrees apart, the SNS code will appear.
3. Loose or corroded connection at P1.
4. If the sensor is not mounted all the way into the JACO fitting on the header, it may give a false reading.
Hi what does remote no demand mean?
This is a reply I received from a Raypak tech regarding your Remote no Demand code:
Our heater stopped working last night. When we turn it on, the RV1 code comes on, then switches to the Temperature of the Pool on the left, and Set Point of the Pool on the right. The code then switches from the temperature of the pool to the CFH code with “Clean Filters/Strainer” above it. We did a backwash and cleaned all the strainers in the pool. The code then switches from CFH to PRS with the “Service” blinking above the set point temperature. We check there is water going into the water heater and nothing has changed for the past 2 years. Pilot flame is not lit and no clicking is heard when we start it up. What do you think the problem could be?
If you check your filter’s pressure gauge, is it reading the normal PSI as before when the heater was working? The issue seems like that water pressure switch is not receiving enough pressure to give the ok for your heater to ignite. That can be either a real flow issue, or you need to replace the pressure switch.
To troubleshoot it further, I suggest you call Raypak. They are really helpful when it comes to troubleshooting these types of problems.
I have a Raypac RP2100 heater. I was getting a error code of INT (the display is hard to read), the service light then flashes and heater will not start. I had a guy come out and said the high tension wire was loose. It then worked. About a week later it did the same thing and did not start. I had the guy come out again and it started right up for him. The display shows the CFH and SPK codes, temperature, as it should. What is wrong, any ideas for this random problem?
Call For Heat (CFH) and Spark (SPK) are normal codes when the heater is initiating its start-up procedure.
TThe closest code I can think of that resembles INT, is VNT which is Vent Switch Open. Raypak state to turn off the heater at the breaker, turn off the gas and power; then call a technician.
I have a ream pool heater that works for about an hour then goes to spark and call for heat continuously until it Burns out the roll out
Does it flash a code? If the heater is old, have you cleaned the heater of soot or debris? Is the heater well ventilated?
Hi I have a RAYPAK 406a I got a code of rol Is there any way to reset this or bypass Or what do I need to fix this problem
The ROL code is listed in the article.
Try to heat the Spa, supply and suck water to and from Spa only. The water level goes down and temperature not increase. Any suggestion? Raypak model R8350ti-e flash with FL3
Going by the description of the problem, it does not seem like a problem with your heat pump, but something is up with your pump/plumbing. Below is the list of things the manual says it could be:
Possible causes:
• The filter is in backwash position.
• The filter pump is stopped.
• The filter is dirty.
• Shortage of water to pool pump.
• FIL parameter must be set to activate pool pump.
• Water pressure switch must be adjusted or it is broken.
• The unit is in the protection mode and will show (FL3), press any key to restart the unit.
FL3 code will stop the unit and pool pump.
I have a Raypak Heat Pump Pool Heater, Model # R6350TI-E giving a flashing PSd code when powered up. Cant find this code anywhere in the manual.
PSd, on the heat pump, would indicate either a bad temperature sensor or a loose wire.
The sun baked out my display on a Raypak 010253F circuit board ****LED*** (See previous post) So I put on a new LED Raypak 013640F……
I received the below reply from my contact over at Raypak:
Mathew,
The sun baked out my display on a Raypak 010253F circuit board ( I have Raypak heater 406a-EP-X-010213), I put on a new LED display fired up the heater and I can only toggle between “Remote No Demand” and “Off Water Temp”. I pushed the reset button to bring it back to factory settings, and when pressing the up/down arrows, it doesn’t go to “Defaults Set”. It appears my navigation is severly limited when pressing to the up/down and mode button. I’m thinking may the board is bad since it doesn’t allow me to move around the settings. Your thoughts?
Hi Matthew.
I have a “Rollout Sw Open” message. Do I need a new switch? Or is it something else?
This is what the manual says about the Roll Out SW Open:
Have you or a technician checked these causes?
I am having an issue with my pool heater.
Raypak model number C-R206A-EN-C ASME.
It sparks, fires up and runs for about 10 seconds, then it says “no demand” and “SW Open”. It is about 10 degrees outside, so I am wondering if it is just too cold? The heater is in a room with the other pool equipment, but it is very cold in there. Please help
Those readings are likely a bad pressure switch or temp sensor. But those codes could also be a byproduct of the temperature. Pool heaters are not meant to run in temp that cold.
Because it is a commercial install (ASME) heater you should probably call Raypak directly to get a confirmation.
Last one…so we have cycled the power at least 3 times recently and the heater has fired without issue. No more TA6 errors. I have put the screws in the panel to keep the board in place and we are enjoying hot water on demand remotely.
Thanks for the reply, totally understand the late response during Holidays, Happy New Year! Our Holidays were much happier with a hot spa😀
One more thing, if you cycle the power to the board, the TA6 error returns and I have to unplug the P10 wire, fire the heater, then after it starts plug the P10 wire in again. It will start after you shut off the heater until the next power cycle.
Thanks for the updates and resolution posts, solid work.
By the way, sorry for the slow response, I was on Christmas vacation while you were troubleshooting the problem
So it turns out that now when I start it with everything back normal, the heater fires without issue. It looks to me like it is a glitch in the firmware code of the circuit that can’t be cleared until the heater fires properly again. I had cleared all faults and set to default earlier but not until I unplugged the P-10 wire and then plugged it back in after it started did the error code for TA6 no longer appear. I wouldn’t just throw away the board if you get that error with a Low NOx unit, try the steps that I did and see if it can work for you as well.
OK, so we have figured out a workaround, let me know if this is safe. I unplugged the P-10 air switch terminal wire on the board that is right beside the Low NOx tab (broken off), started the unit and it fired. It then ran for about 30 seconds and shutoff with a FAN error code. I started it again and this time after it started, I plugged in the P-10 air switch wire and it continues to run. Do you see any safety issues with this?
Actually we have the 407A which is Low NOx, does this mean the board is toast?
One more; LOW NOx not LOW BOX…
Edit: a new circuit board…and put it in. Can’t edit same post.
We have a model Raypak 406-A unit with a new curcuit board recently installed about 3 months ago. We needed to break the the Low Nox circuit tab as it is not a Low Box unit. We actually forgot to break it when we first out it in and then realized we forgot to break the tab and got the TA6 Tab error code.
It had worked flawlessly since we installed it.
The old board (circa 2006) had a CLK error that we couldn’t clear likely to a degradation of the circuit. It also had the NOX tab broken.
Anyway, yesterday we went to fire the heater (after using it several times in the past week) and now have the TA6 (Tab) alarm.
Any idea what to try?
Matt, I have a Raypak R206A pool heater that is giving me a message that reads 6 minute ignition delay, what should I look at first ?
The heater does fire up but stops after a couple of minutes….
What is the actual code that reads on your display? Generally, Raypak’s codes are 3 letters long.
Also, when the heater does finally ignite is there a loud bang or “whoosh” sound? Before the heater stops, is there a knocking sound or hissing?