A glimmering pool light will add dazzling high notes to your poolscape; but a dim or broken light can leave you in the dark as to how to fix it. When your light goes kaput it is time to roll up the shirt sleeves, pull out the test probes and go to work.
But where to start? That is a tough question, as a pool light can have a hundred or so feet of cable, circuit breakers, GFCIs, and junction boxes to contest with. I’ve learned to start with the easy and then work your way up to the hard. We will walk through some simple fixes and some not so simple.
So, sit back, relax and let us enlighten you. I swear that is the last pun in this blog…
What’s the bright idea? (I lied)
The Easy
Loose Fixture
A pool light, despite all its waterproofing and hundred or so volts of electricity, is held into the pool wall by one bolt called the lockscrew. The lockscrew is located at the 12 o’clock position on the light fixture face. If the fixture wobbles when touched or a strong ripple hits it then a loose screw is likely the cause.
To fix the issue, dip into your pool with a phillips head screwdriver and tighten the screw. If the screw is stripped or lost, make sure you replace the screw and the gum o-ring. The o-ring is important to prevent excess water leakage into the niche or housing.
Leaky Pool Light
For the close observing swimmer, you may notice water in the light fixture. Most of the time, this issue is not discovered until 
the bulb blows. As we all should know, water and light sockets do not mix.
A leaky pool light stems from a bad lens gasket. This part is also called the housing gasket. The heavy gauge rubber ring acts as a clamp seal that waterproofs the joint between the lens and light housing. Chlorine exposure or old age can deteriorate the rubber to warp so that it allows water to reach the light internals. A fixture filled with water can also cause a breaker to trip, so be mindful of that when troubleshooting. Replacing a pools light lens gasket is pretty simple and even the more novice pool owners can do the job.
Another less likely cause of a pool light fixture leak is a power cord conduit seal leak. If the conduit seal degrades to that point, the light is likely dead and will require replacement.
Change the Bulb
If your pool light will not turn on and you suspect the bulb, the old shake test is simple enough for any pool owner to do. The steps on the bulb shake test are simple: remove the light bulb from the fixture and shake it next to your ear. If you hear the ring-a-ting-ting of a broken filament then it’s time for a new bulb.
If the bulb was relatively new before it blew, I would not run out and replace it right away. A test of the circuitry may be necessary to be certain the new bulb will not be ruined by a power surge or some other electrical issue. Take a look at our guide on replacing a pool light bulb.
The Not So Easy…
Tripping the Breaker
The dreaded CLICK of a tripped breaker is an annoying and sometimes befuddling event. Annoying because most of the time the reason for the trip is a mystery, unless of course you just plugged in an appliance that overloaded a circuit.
Before we do anything, we want to reset the breaker and also restore the circuit to the point before the trip. To perform the latter, we will unplug any appliance that may have immediately caused the overload.
Next, we will reset the breaker at the box. When a breaker is tripped, it flips to an idle position and will not resume current flow until it is completely reset by hand. To reset the breaker, find the flipped breaker, push it to the complete off position and then flip on. If the switch is not completely reset, it will spring back to idle. If you correctly reset the breaker but it continues to flip to neutral, replacing the breaker may be necessary.
Bad Breaker
The actual task of checking the breaker is not the difficulty, mainly because the task consists of touching a couple probes to terminals. The usual hurdle homeowners have to overcome is getting a multimeter to complete the task. Your run of the mill meter can be found at a local hardware store or borrowed from friendly neighbor.
To test a single pole 120 Volt breaker we will need to remove the front panel of the breaker box to access the terminals. Before removing the panel, make sure to mark the switch that handles the light’s load.
The multimeter will have two leads: one Red lead (positive) and one Black lead (Negative or Ground.)The black lead is connected to COM port and the red to the mAVΩ port, the latter will be touched to the “hot” wire to measure volt load. Set the multimeter to read 120 Volt AC or higher so it can accurately read your breaker. Touch the red lead to the single pole terminal and the black lead to the neutral base row. The neutral row is normally labeled, but if it is not look for terminal row with the white wires.
Tripping the GFCI
The ground fault circuit interrupter, better known as the GFCI is a safety device used on installations with a higher than normal risk of electric shock. Most homeowners are familiar with GFCIs from their bathroom electrical sockets. The socket GFCI are also used on construction sites where machinery cords could come into contact with water or sheared.
The GFCI works by reading a circuit’s current for an irregularity that could be a symptom of a shock hazard. A GFCI circuit can be activated by a current change as low as 4 milliamps. Interrupter switches are an absolute necessity for safety at home or work, but that sensitivity can cause a nuisance, quite literally. A phenomenon known as nuisance tripping occurs when a GFCI trips when it mistakenly reads a current change as a potential shock hazard.
Common triggers of nuisance trips are:
- Circuits longer than 100 feet
- Lighting circuits using fluorescent bulbs
- Permanently installed electric motors, i.e. bathroom exhaust fans
If the above do not apply to your tripping circuit, it may be time to replace your GFCI. Like any electronic component, these interrupter switches have a lifespan and need to be tested monthly to determine their status.
Line Continuity
A pool light may have up to 200 feet of wire running from the power source to the fixture. Within that length of cable, there may be a fault in a junction, the line or the fixture. Checking line continuity is the process of finding the source of a fault in circuit. Again this task can be done with the handy dandy multimeter. We will be starting from a point in which we assume you have already checked the GFCI and breaker as mentioned earlier in this piece.
- Set the multimeter to read for 120 or 12-volt range for proper readings.
- Measure line voltage at junction box. A junction box is the point at which multiple electrical device cables can be joined to one main line. Not all applications utilize a junction so this step may not apply. If the junction reads 0 then the mainline leading to box is malfunctioning. Have an electrician inspect and install a new main line from box to breaker.
- Remove fixture from niche, then remove bulb from fixture, touch multimeter leads to fixture socket for reading. If the meter reads 0 from the socket, the fixture is dead and needs to be completely replaced.
As you can see the testing of a pool light is straightforward due to the simple nature of its design. One electrical circuit to the fixture allows for a relatively easy troubleshoot without hard labor. As with anything electrical, if you have any questions or reservations, ask a professional before fiddling with live wires. A working pool light is not worth risking electrocution.
I just bought my first home and have never owned a pool before. It’s an inground concrete pool. The light in the pool hasn’t worked since I moved in 3 weeks ago so I’ve been trying to investigate this problem. I have taken the entire housing out of the pool and it is so corroded I cannot get any of the housing to come apart and the labeling is all warn to the point of no reading. I want to buy a new housing and fish the wires through to the junction box but I am not an electrician and am not sure to buy a 12v or 120v housing! My local pinch-a-penny only has 12v housings listed as an option. If the housing can put out either voltage and it just depends whats coming from my Breaker to the Junction box. Since this house was built in the 60’s and I don’t see a converter! My guess is everything is 120v. Just really need to know if I can buy any housing? Thank you.
The housing accepts the voltage it does not put it out, so you will need to determine the voltage coming from the breaker. A 120-volt circuit will have a line running directly from the breaker to the light or a junction box. A 12-volt circuit will have a line from the breaker routed to a 12-volt transformer then to the light or junction box.
Walk the path of the light circuit to locate a transformer: if there is no transformer present then you have a 120-volt light. Buying the correct fixture voltage is especially important for LED lights because unlike the incandescent fixtures the bulbs cannot be substituted out to switch voltage.
To determine a proper light replacement, you will need to measure the outside diameter of the face rim and the depth. Similar to the image of a Pentair Amerilite shown below. Review our light section for lights that have similar dimensions:
.
PLEASE HELP,
I was checking my in ground pool light fixture. I have continuity every where except a little silver part (tab) in the very bottom of the fixture, where the bulb screws in, does this mean I have to purchase a new fixture?
If I have replace the whole fixture which would you recommend?
Thank you for all of your help,
Dumb Broad
I am not sure what that tab could be. Can you post a new thread on Inyo’s Forum with a picture of the light and tab? Maybe the group of pool owners and techs can figure it out.
Hello. My pool light won’t turn off. The switch isn’t like a normal switch. It looks like a low voltage thing. There are several buttons but only one works anything….the pool light. What do you think?
Thanks.
This may be a question better suited for Inyo’s Forum, so you can post pictures of the equipment.
Hi
When we turn pool lights on they stay on for a few seconds then trip GFI switch everything was working great just started this week.electrican thinks it could be lights
The light was installed when the pool was installed, 6 years ago – I know that LED lights should last “a long time”. There does NOT appear to be water in the housing. If it is the light- seems like I will want to wait until the pool is drained below the light case (for the winter)?
To me that sounds like a bad bulb, there may be a troubleshooting procedure for your particular model in the owner’s manual or found online. But generally, the LED bulb replacements are almost the same cost of a whole new light.
To install a new light, you do not have to drain the pool to replace a bulb, read this guide: How To Replace a Pool Light Fixture
HI – My LED pool light flashes only briefly when the switch is thrown. I have an Intermatic PX100. When I put a voltmeter on it I get a 120V input line reading and a 12.3V output from the transformer – seems like the transformer is fine. My GFCI is not tripping…
Thasnk for your help!
-Chris
You may have a faulty light. How long has the light been installed? Also when you pool the light up on your deck, was there water in the housing?
My pool light had water in it and stoped working.
After replacing all fixture with a new one and pulling the 100ft cable back to the junction box where the spa light connects. Can’t get the pool light to turn on. When i swap pool light hot wire connection with the hot wire of spa line the pool light works. Which means first thing that the new pool light is good. In the junction box i do get hot wire power reading on the spa line but no hot wire power on the pool line. All wires from the junction box back into the Intellitouch i5 are connected and nothing looks like its tripped. Gfci reset no problem.
Asaf, I am not sure, you may want to try posting this question in the Forum. There are a couple electricians in there that can help you out.
Matthew, may I know what was the best thing to do with my problem on the light on my spa not turning off using both the manual and the remote switches. Instead I have to turn off the Gfci breaker off. Thanks.
I’m sorry Tony, but I am not able to follow your question. What is happening with the light?
Hello, maybe you can help with your advice on this… I had a light with water inside the housing/bulb (?) about 1/4 full. Hired a pool repairman to come out and replace the entire thing (not just the bulb). Problem solved but the repairman said he was shocked that the GFCI didn’t trip when it detected water (he said it would usually be very sensitive to water/moisture). He said the even poured a little water on the exposed wires at the junction box and that didn’t trip the GFCI. He said it was very dangerous to have the light on, and to keep the breaker off until I could have it looked at by a good electrician. I called another local trusted repairman and he said the opposite…that because it’s grounded, that I don’t have to worry about anything. Of course, i rather be safe than sorry; should I aim to replace the GFCI breaker? or just have an electrician come out to inspect further?
Have a true (licensed) electrician come and take a look at the circuit to be on the safe side. A bad light circuit and swimmers can be a dangerous mix.
Hi. The lights in the pool and spa turn on but only the light in the pool turns off. The spa light won’t turn off in both manual switch and remote switch. All I know that I did was I replaced the lock screw with another size of screw. Here’s the thing that happened. When I was getting the original screw out I broke it and so as the thread. So I tap bit with the next bigger size. From 10-32 to size 12-24 x 3. Not sure why it is not turning off. Please advise.
Hi. We have a Jandy 30 ft Led pool light that is tripping the breaker (the spa light works fine). I assume water has gotten in the unit. Is it worth it to try and replace just the gasket and the light bulb (which is affordable and we could probably do ourselves) or do I need to invest in a whole new light and installation? (Which was quoted at 1100.00 and way out of our budget.)
Thanks so much
A light fixture replacement even with installation included for that price, is balderdash, excuse my French. If you are handy, you could complete the installation yourself, see this guide: How To Replace a Pool Light Fixture
A real simple test to figure out if the light is shot, let the light dry out for a bit and either test the socket for voltage using a multimeter, or screw in a new bulb. If the bulb works, or the multimeter reads the proper voltage, a bulb and new lens gasket should do the trick; if not, you can get a brand new pool light.
I am able to turn my pool light on manually with a switch located by the pool equipment. My remote switch in the house is able to turn the pool light off but will not turn it back on.
Any ideas of what my issue might be?
Thanks in advance.
That issue may be as simple as a faulty remote. Have you tried calling the manufacturer on your controller to do a quick troubleshoot?
I don’t know the manufacturer. Was installed 12 years ago.
All I can determine is the interior switch is labeled Leviton. Is it more likely the interior switch or the switch located near outside system?
Thanks again,
I installed a light using a gfci. I also added an outlet on the same line. Now I am not able to power anything from the outlet and my light is not working. I am getting current to the light\outlet but it does not power anything. I can power the pool light of off another line. ??
I am not an electrician but I would put the light and outlet on separate breakers and see how that works. The two circuits may be too much for the breaker size.
Also, is it a breaker new?
I’m having a problem with my pool light as well. Every time the timer tried to switch on the light, the GFCI switch would blow. It’s been doing this for about 2 weeks. Then the pump and salt water generator starting blowing the switch as well. For about 2 days I’d go in and reset the timer and manually switch everything on and it would function fine until the timer shut them all down. Now they run and stop on their own regardless of the timer. Any ideas on what I should do? The pool is just now 1 year old.
Most of the issues in the comments mainly come down to ensuring the electrical circuit’s integrity. The best move is to go down the circuit starting from the power source on down the to the light itself.
The first thing to check are the wire connetions, check all wire connections (including ground wires) are secure and up to code. Secondly, replace the breaker. A lot of electrical issues stem from a breaker that has gone kaput. Third, check your timer’s owner’s manual for any troubleshooting help.
My sawiming pool underwater light is triping when it’s start . There installed RCCBO there is transformer also. Light is 12 v . I changed transformer but it’s still triping
The obvious first question is: did you complete any of the troubleshooting tips I listed in the article? If you have not, then I suggest you do so and then we can take it from there.
I have an in ground pool / 120v light. last year the light would stay on for 15 min. then go off then back on and off and on ………. this year as soon as I turn it on it lights for only 1 or 2 seconds then goes out. any thoughts?????
The fist thing I would try is replacing the GFCI; it may be as simple as the breaker being bad. Hopefully, it is this because it is the cheapest fix. If it is not the breaker, then you may have an issue with the light cable or fixture. If it is the light, you may have to replace the whole fixture.
Matt,
My pool has two lights and originally with two independent GFCI, however, seemed that the previous owner installed the two lamps from a single GFCI and once I turn on the light switch, the GFCI trips. I bought two GFCI and tried to wire the two lamps as per original design but now they both trip. I checked ground and neutral and they are properly connected at the junction box.
How can I test the lamp itself? maybe the cable the problem? how can I checked the cable? continuity check?
Thanks
It is in the article, the last section titled LINE CONTINUITY.
Hi Ray. Did you ever solve this? I am having the same problem and wonder if the transformer is going bad.
I’m a single mom and my light doesn’t work. We resorted to just swimming during the day. Lately if we touch the light or brush up against it we get shocked. I really can’t afford to pay someone to come out. Is there anything I can do as I am now afraid to swim in the pool at all for fear I’m going to be electrocuted.
Carole, close the breaker feeding power to the light, immediately, and don’t let them back in the pool until this is fixed.
It sounds like the light is not properly grounded, allowing whatever issue in the circuit to seep out and bite swimmers. Trace the light circuit to its source and check for any grounded wires that are loose or missing. Report back with what you find, or provide pictures to see if we can figure out the circuit problem.
I had a problem where my lights (one at each end of pool) would either immediately trip the breaker or do so within about 30 seconds (upon initial try, then subsequent tries would trip the breaker immediately). I replaced the breaker, and the lights seem to work fine, but they are no longer synchronized and one light stays stuck on one color while the other light will cycle through all of its colors. I have a 2007 Aqualink Aquapure and no remote, I switch between light choices by cycling the pool light on and off as described in the manual.
What model lights are installed on your pool?
Hello,
I have a bit of a stumper. I have 3 lights : pool, spa, and a patio pedestal light. Each light works fine independently from my pentagram easy touch control. Pool light and spa light can both be on at same time. Pedestal and spa light can be on at same time. But selecting pedestal and pool light will immediately trip gfci outlet. Any ideas before I call out an electrician?
My first suspicion is that the combination of the two lights is overloading the breaker. The three lights likely have varying loads they put on the breaker, but the combination of the pool light (likely the biggest strain) and the pedestal light is too much. If you feel comfortable in doing so, I suggest putting a bigger GFCI on the circuit.
Hi my pool lights are both new and my timer when I go to turn on the lights the gfci trips immediately I’ve done tons of testing found that the neutral wire is grounded on my panel incoming 4g neutral I asked around and was told that it is supposed to be grounded but my question is why does my gfci trip so I eliminated the gfci as I was told was only for the receptacles and the lights work and don’t trip any breakers I would like to install the gfci back but is it really necessary to do so and what could cause the gfci to trip I pulled amps and it is pulling half of what rated and I replaced with new gfci to ensure it wasn’t weak and same results
GFCIs are for safety reasons, any electrical appliances that are exposed to elements (water) should be protected by a GFCI. Have you had a licensed electrician check out the problem?
I have a beachcomber hot tub with a broken underwater light down at foot level. It’s rusted through the fixture-can I replace the this myself?
I am not familiar with that spa model, so I could not tell you if that specific one is serviceable. I suggest contacting Beachcomber for assistance at 866-568-0668
Hey friend. So i bought home 4 months ago, spa light never wekd, i fugured bad bulb, but main pool lightalways worked, i had compamy replaster pool so im taling they had to remove light to do replastering. But everytime i turn on light my gfci near pool equipment trips but if i tirn light swotch off, gfci will work everything else just fine ?
Maybe they messed with the bonding of the light causing an issue with the circuit. But that sounds like an electrician should be brought in to figure out the issue.
Replaced my pool light (entire fixture) with a new Pentair LED light. Power is definitely running to the light but it does not turn on. Is there anything I could be missing or should I chalk it up to a defective fixture and return it? Light is definitely the 120v, not the 12v. The old light worked fine for years until it started taking in water.
To me, it sounds like a dead light. You can always try to call the manufacturer to check if they have any tips, but those calls usually end with them deeming it defective as well.
Thank you, I spoke with Pentair and they agree, defective light. Thank you.
No problem, glad to help.
My pool light has gone dim. Still working but not providing the brightness it once did. I haven’t been able to check the lens yet to see if there is a leak.
Check the light voltage as well, or it could just be an old bulb.
My pool light system has a mind of its own. It’s on a Thermocraft junction box and wireless remote, but does not respond to the remote, and goes on and of at random times. We’d like to be able to turn on the lights only when we want to use the pool, and leave them off the rest of the time.
I’m not sure what that could be, maybe you have a faulty control box or remote.
My spa light will come on for a second then trip the gfci. The bulb does not burn out. Disconnected spa light at junction box and hooked it to another gfci circuit. Same result popped gfci. So problem is from junction to the light. Are there any common problems that would cause this?
Is the light properly grounded? The GFCI is meant to protect from faulty circuits, if the light is not grounded, no matter what GFCI it is connected to, the breaker will trip.
My spa light will come on for a second and then trip the gfci.
Thanks for responding. The problem is fixed now. I had a friend come over that knows his way around a multimeter better than me, and we discovered that the transformer was not working. Swapped the transformer out for another one, and the lights came on as if by magic! So it turns out ‘operator error’ was a factor in my repair..
Ok, glad you fixed it. And don’t worry, “user error” mistakes happen to us DIY-ers more often than we will ever admit. 🙂
Hi Matt,
I’m in a similar situation as Andy. The pool light won’t go on. I moved into this house 3 months ago, and some of the pool lights worked. Then they stopped working, I noticed water in the bulbs. Bought 2 new LED multi colour bulbs, and had the pool guy install them. Flicked the switch, and they don’t go on. Used multimeter to check power coming out of transformer (11.7v), and at the end of the cable by the light. Doesnt seem like there is power at the end of the wire. I find it hard to believe that the cable is fouled in 3 months.. How can i find out what the problem is?
Interesting issue, James. Did the LED lights ever come on? Did you test the lights before you installed them? Also, if you only replaced the bulbs and the fixture was waterlogged, it may be beyond repair.
My new 12v low voltage color led zodiac didn’t work when pool Co installed it needed it for july 4th so they put in temp 120v led that worked fine they said they ordered a new light 2p days later installed another new 12v light this one does not work either I’m trying and fighting with them to fix it. It seems that they dont want to any troubleshooting of what the problem secratary just says we don’t or never use the 12v light but thats what i paid for since my last pool we had the list had water in it troubleshooting the problem would be my first choice to find the problem the only difference in lights is one has a step down transformer not sure if eirei g was cage for new light that doesn’t work either now I haven’t heard from them, I even called the manufacturer zodiac/jandy because pool security sad not compatable with pool equipment not true my whole system is jandy they work with with all pool equipment I’m getting the run around. I WISH THEY WOULD JUST TROUBLESHOOT IT 2 lights in a row being bad yaw Right. I’m thinking they burned out first light and put temp 12v I. Then Put first light back in so they can talk me in to a 12v light that we don’t want?
I mentioned the 120v led light we don’t and didnt want.
I got color light but stay only one color what can I do
Is this a new installation? Or is this an old light just acting up? Also, what model light do you have?
Bill, is there a chance that you just have a bad transformer? You say the first 12 volt light does not work, then they installed a 120 volt light that worked fine, and then they tried another 12v light that did not work. My first thoughts went to a bad 12v transformer that is messing up the step down in voltage from 120 to 12. If the pool company doesn’t want to troubleshoot the problem, get an electrician to look at it.
Hey man I got a question about a wiring up a transformer through an pentair EasyTouch panel 8. And I have a 120 to 12 external transformer that’s wired up to a 12v intellibrite led color spa light and pool light. Is there any way using to get them to turn on and off or change colors separately or would I need two transformers and or one 12v one 120 light and run them through seleprate circuits relays? Trying to get ScreenLogic controller automation to run them seperately
This may be the first time I have gotten this question, usually, pool owners are trying to make sure everything is synced up. The two lights cannot be operated as induvial circuits if they are hooked to the same transformer. You would have to add a separate transformer to be able to operate them independently.
Sounds like bad wiring. Did they wire up to a 120 to 12v transformer or to gfi!? If the 120 was working then then they bypassed the transformer and went to put a new 12v in and do not know how to install them and or your transformer could be bad.
Hi, my pool and spa light will not come on. I have checked breaker I case it has tripped. All okay. I have now removed and replaced the 20 v breaker. Still nothing. I have now removed the pool light fiture and replaced with a new bulb. Still nothing. Can you offer any advice? Thanks Andy
Andy, has the GFCI tripped and maybe you forgot to reset it?
Does the housing show any signs of corrosion or have you checked line continuity? If the fixture is the problem you will likely just have to replace the whole fixture. If the light cable is fouled then a replacement fixture will be necessary; unless, the problem lies in a junction box or some other power source connection.
hi,i have a question about my swimming pool lights, one time i change the light 12 v. clip type now working,after 30 sec. i checked again,the light does not work,burning inside,but the breaker not tripping then i replace again at the same type, again burning the light ,the i check power output 12.4v. i need your advise.thanks
What model light do you own? Also when you say it is “burning” do you mean the light pops and causes the bulb to fail? Or does burn mean something else?
light model sp0581s15,made in usa,screw type,e27 300w/12v,yes sir i mean light pops causes bulb is fail,thanks for the reply sir..
Have you tried putting the light on a different breaker? Or have you tested the voltage on the fixture side, or only at the breaker?
Hi Guys
Want replacment LED POOL LIGHTS go to kiwipool.co.nz or email kiwipool@gmail.com
Also has an Induction Led Pool Light as well as a replacement retro fit for the FIBER OPTIC LIGHTS THAT HAVE FAILED. ALL LOW VOLTAGE.
If a pool hot tub lightbulb gets too hot will that trip your GFR ?
I noticed one day that there was the light went out and there was water inside the light bulb I thought it was the Transformer had the Transformer replaced and the light bulb replaced and it’s still not working the inside of the light bulb has a little bit of corrosion like if it looks rusted because of the water got into it do you think it’s the whole system the whole light system
A quick way to figure out if the circuit is intact is to use a voltmeter light fixture socket. If the socket is not receiving power then we know the light cable is corrupted. A new light fixture is a likely solution.
Mine has 62 volts in the socket and the switch does not change anything
4Inch hayward spa light
If your socket is only getting 62 volts, that would be the problem. Bulbs generally come in two types, 120 or 12. Your socket voltage is in no man’s land. Did you switch it to a different breaker? If you have, and the voltage stays the same then your cord is shot.
Hi Matthew
I have a pool light with Scenes, which I can control from my living room. It is not turning on at all now. I have not come across any topic about this kind of light on the internet. Can u plz help.
Thanks.
I have not heard of Scenes, so I couldn’t tell you much about it. If scenes is a manufacturer of a home automation system, it may be best to see if they can troubleshoot it.
Can I just remove the fixture only with out pulling the long wire out. And jut reseal it
Are you asking about replacing the light fixture or removing it from the niche to troubleshoot it?
Hi my pool is only 2 years old built I have 3 led light one in the spa and two in the pool. One of the light from the pool stop working I don’t know if it’s of shit I calle I don’t know if i should contact Hayward warranty
There are two basic options: you can try (or hire someone) to do the troubleshooting mentioned in the article or you can contact Hayward to have them try to troubleshoot with you.
If my spa Led and my two pool led are on a easy touch and on one button does that mean they share the same breaker… my pool lights were put in last year…..
Going by the EasyTouch wiring diagrams, yes that should mean they are on the same AUX circuit.
I have a problem with my pool light as well. I replaced the bulb about a month ago and it worked the first day. The next day we went for a swim and It tripped the breaker. I figured water was in it but i was wrong. Now today i tried it just for fun and it works perfectly. Any idea whemy this would happen? I’m afraid it will happen again when i want to use it. Thanks
My first and most obvious question, did you do any of the troubleshooting mentioned in the guide?
What would cause one of lights not to sync with other two that are synced. Even when they’re set to stay one color the one light gets changing colors. Is the bulb itself malfunctioning? Thanks
If you know the light model, you can track down a troubleshooting guide pdf through google. Or you can have an electrician come in and take a look at the wiring. But my first move would be to ID the light to get a troubleshooting guide; it is the cheapest route.
How do I fix the pool light?
There is a delay when turning on my LED pool light which can range from minutes , hours and days. It’s as if if it struggles to turn on but when it does it works fine. At first I thought it was the bulb but when I noticed it would eventually turn on I figured it has to be something else. Sometimes when I turn it on it is extremely dim but then after minutes , hours and even days it gets to full brightness. If this doesn’t make sense I can send a video of the issue. Could this be an electrical component within the pool equipment box wearing out ?
The light circuitry is likely the problem. Some part of the LED’s PCB is faulty, causing a capacitor to charge slower, delaying the current from reaching the LED array.
I’d hire an electrician to inspect the light and the circuit if you do not feel comfortable doing so.