Salt chlorine generators are great products. But, you know what’s not great? Troubleshooting and diagnosing their problems. If you’re reading this blog that means you need help troubleshooting your Hayward Aqua Rite salt system. Well, the good news is you are at the right spot and you’re definitely not alone.
This blog is an in-depth look at the Aqua Rite and Aqua Rite XL diagnostics manual created by Hayward.
Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED FLASHING or ON
The Inspect Cell LED (only) flashes or stays on when:
- The 500 operation hour countdown timer expires. To fix the problem, manually reset the Inspect Cell LED.
How To Reset The Inspect Cell LED
- Press and hold the diagnostic button for 3 to 5 seconds. The LED light should go out.
The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s flash together when:
- Your salt level is between 2500-2600 parts per million (ppm). Your chlorine generator is still producing chlorine at the moment, which is a good thing. This is more of an indicator light than anything else.
The Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will stay ON when:
- The salt level is 2300 ppm or less and no chlorine is generating.
Possible Remedies
Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct salt cell size. If you program the incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.
How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size
- Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
- Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and then back to AUTO.
- Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.
Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 ppm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.
If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.
If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.
How To Add Salt To Your Pool
Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)
Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?
If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.
If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.
How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell
Step 4: Reset the average salt level.
Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)
How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level
- To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
- After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
- Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.
Step 5: Measure your cell’s polarity to ensure they meet system parameters.
If the amps on either reading show zero (0), then you should replace your Main PC Board (GLX-PCB-RITE).
If the amps show a reading that isn’t within range, then you should replace your Turbo Cell.
High Salt LED ON
The High Salt LED stays on when:
- The cell amperage is above the maximum limit.
- You have too much salt in your pool.
- The control is set for the wrong turbo cell type.
Possible Remedies
Step 1: Check your system to confirm that you have programmed the correct cell size. If you program an incorrect cell size, the salt level, amperage, and voltage will not be correct and the system will turn off. Also, make sure you plug in the cell all the way. You might be surprised by how many people neglect to check this area.
How To Set Your Turbo Cell Size
- Slide your main switch to the AUTO position.
- Switch your cell type by cycling the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE then back to AUTO.
- Push the diagnostic button until “T-XX” appears on the display.
Step 2: Verify the accuracy of the salt readings (2700-3400 pm) with an independent test kit or by taking a water sample to your local pool store for testing. 3200 ppm is the ideal level.
If the salt level is below range, add enough salt to achieve a salt level of 3200 ppm.
If the salt level is within range, go to Step 3.
How To Lower Your Salt Levels
Step 3: Is your cell clean? Inspect and clean your cell. If you haven’t inspected your cell yet, now is a perfect time. (Yes, literally now.)
Does your cell look like 4A or 4B?
If your cell looks like 4A, continue to Step 4.
If your cell looks like 4B, follow the instructions below for cleaning your cell.
How To Clean An Aqua Rite Turbo Cell
Step 4: Reset the average salt level.
Reset the average salt level on startup and whenever you replace your cell. (The factory default is 2800 ppm)
How To Recalibrate The Average Salt Level
- To reset your average salt level, turn the unit to OFF and then back to AUTO. Wait for the relay to click (5 to 10 seconds).
- After the click, immediately push the diagnostic button 5 times to begin the recalibration stage.
- Once it finishes calibrating, cycle the main switch from AUTO to SUPER CHLORINATE and back to AUTO.
If recalibrating your salt level did not resolve your problem, then your cell or your PCBoard is bad and needs replacing. For more in depth troubleshooting or if you need help discerning which one to replace first, we recommend calling Hayward directly.
No Flow LED Flashing or ON
The No Flow LED flashes for up to 60 seconds during startup.
- If the No Flow LED is flashing, wait 60 seconds after starting your pump and filter.
- Check for possible turbulence or obstructions inside of the flow T.
- Ensure there are at least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch.
- There should be NO elbow after the flow switch.
Possible Remedies
Step 1: Wait 60 seconds after the pump starts. Typically, the LED light should shut off after 60 seconds. If it does not, keep reading.
Step 2: Verify that you have enough straight pipe before where you have installed your flow switch. There should be at least 12″ of straight pipe before the switch.
Replumb your flow switch if it does not meet the distance requirements. Does the LED light turn off after 60 seconds? If not, keep reading.
Step 3: Ensure that there isn’t anything obstructing or blocking the flow. In most cases, if there is a blockage, your pump’s pressure increases. Remove blockage and backwash your filter.
Step 4: If none of the previous steps solved the problem, replace your flow switch.
The NO FLOW LED stays ON when there is a flow switch problem.
- Verify if your flow switch was installed correctly.
- The arrow at the top of the hex nut points in the direction of the water flow.
- Flow switches require a minimum flow fate of 11 gallons per minute to stay consistently closed
- Check for damaged or cut wires
Possible Remedies
Step 1: With your pump running, double-check the positions of your valves.
Step 2: Did you properly install your switch? The arrow should point in the same direction as the water flow. If it is not, re-align your flow switch.
Step 3: Double check the wires on the flow switch for damage. If you see any damage, replace your flow switch. If there isn’t any apparent damage, keep reading.
Step 4: Verify your pump’s pressure. If you see an increase in pump pressure, ensure that there is no blockage preventing the flow.
Step 5: Replace your switch.
Low or High Cell Temperature
The LCD display reads COLD when:
- Water temperature is below 50 degrees F. (The cell output scales back to 20% once it reaches 60 degrees F and shuts off at 50 degrees F.)
The LCD display reads HOT when:
- Water temperature is above 140 degrees F.
* If your water temperature reads 215 degrees F, the cell temperature sensor is shorted and your cell needs replacing. *
Other Common Problems and Solutions
Power LED Not On
- Make sure that either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control.
- Verify input voltage with a voltmeter
- If there is input power, the fuse may have blown.
- The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.
‘Generating’ LED Flashing
- The temperature of the pool water is too high or too low to operate.
- Override this by moving the Main Switch to Super Chlorinate. The Aqua Rite runs at maximum out for for the remainder of the current pump cycle or for 24 hours, whichever comes first.
I have an Aqua Rite system with a T cell 15. When pushing the diagnostic button it comes to a R 1.45 then back to salt number. It never displays the T cell number. Is something wrong with the Cell or system? Unit installed in 2009. Also what is R 1.45. is this number correct? It also has AL – 1. Is this correct? Thanks
The R1.45 is the firmware revision.
Usually, if the T-Cell value does not show up in the menu it is because it is not plugged in properly. Check the cable connections
I’ve got a Aqua Rite with firmware R1.40 and mine doesn’t dhow the T cell number either. I think since only the T-15 was supported on versions earlier than R1.50 the there was no reason to have that display option in the firmware.
Hi. My salt machine says no flow then shuts down. All the lights go off even power. I turn it back on and it just does the same think. I ve checked the connections. It’s all good. Nothing obstructing. Can you please help. What could it be. It reads that my salt is at 2700. Could that be the problem? But the check salt does not come on. Only power and blinking no flow then it shuts down.
Thanks.
I’m having a no chorine generating issue.
When I first flip the pump on readings are
1500 salt
90degrees
28volts
.78-.90amps!
O
Then it will switch off turning check cell and low salt light on. Had the salt tested and is at 3300 does this sound like a bad cell or a board issue with the extremely low amps?
We have an aqua rite t-cell 15. Salt level has been tested professionally and it is a little over 3000 ppm. However, even after re-calibrating the cell to that reading level, the reading keeps going down gradually, over a period of a few hours, until it reaches about 2300 at which point it stops generating. We have repeated this process several times over the past week and it continues to do the same thing. Does this mean cell replacement?
Correct, the cell is the issue in this equation. Replace it, and the system should return to operating normally.
have an aqua rite controller and T9 cell that does not seem to be generating. The salt level on the display was low so I added salt but when I checked the salt level with test strips it showed a value around 6000 ppm! Now the display shows a level of 100 ppm even after cleaning the cell (which btw was not visibly diirty at all). Is the cell ready for replacement? Does this value of 100 mean something? Any help is appreciated.
Yes, it sounds like your TCell is ready to be replaced. The only thing that I could think of that would show 100 on the board is “100 P” which is referencing to the board being set at 100% production.
Hi, our Hayward AquaTrol is about 7 years old and it’s suddenly having a problem. We’re getting the Generating LED briefly flashing and then turning off. No lights at all on the display and it’s definitely not generating chlorine. Pump is running and we do have flow. We’ve already checked the fuse and all is fine. Help!
When was the last time you cleaned the cell? How do the plates looks, any scaling?
Just installed a new pool and running my chlorinator for the first time.. we balanced the chemicals and added salt. I have a t 3 cell and my numbers creeped from 2800 to 3700 I had the dial at 5 ppm and chloromator is still generating. Why has it not shut down ?
Thank you,
When you add the salt it takes time for it to dissolve completely into solution. This may be the reason for your slow creep up to 3700 ppm. The cell would keep generating until it hits the 5 ppm setting, it is probably still running because it has not reached that mark. Also, 5 ppm is high for a salt pool. I would set it to 2 or 3
Thank you for the quick response. When I said 5 ppm I was trying to say 5 %output on the dial. When satisfied would the unit stay on stand and not generate ? I have been running it for 8hours a day since Saturday and pool is still saying 3700. Having trouble understanding how to maintain the right range.
Any help would be great.
Thank you,
The cell would stay on even while it is not generated, but the “Generating” light wouldn’t be lit. When you have it set to 5% production, that means in any given hour the cell would only be active for 3 minutes.
If the salt reading is accurate, then it is not going to go down unless you drain a portion of the water. Get your water tested by a local pool company to confirm the salinity level. Proper salinity levels for an AquaRite is 2700 to 3400 ppm.
My unit stop working, no led’s at all. I replaced the transformer, had main board repaired and replaced the indicator board. Still no lights at all, although I can hear the transformer’s quiet normal hum now. Even the plug that operates my pump doesn’t work. But the pump will come on when I use any other source of power. This is driving me crazya
I forgot to mention that I have already tried calibrating the salt cell. I hope what I said above makes sense. My phone was acting up. Thanks!
Mike, I have a strange one. My awful right was not producing chlorine like it should. The display board says I have 3500 salt but I have had it checked locally several times and it’s only about 2600. I have a strange one. My swim pure T-9 was not producing chlorine like it should. The display board says I have 3400 salt but I have had it checked locally several times and it’s only about 2400. The cell amperage seems to confirm this because it only shows 5.17 amps which is low for a T-9. I clean my cell monthly. Otherwise the system seems to be operating normal and all the other diagnostics are correct. Any ideas? Do you know if the high salt alarm is tied to the amperage for the cell? In other words can I keep adding salt until it is the actual correct salt level without causing the swim pure to stop working? As long as the amperage doesn’t go to high I should be ok? Thanks!
Hello Jim, I would add enough salt to get the water into the 2700 to 3400 ppm range and see what happens. If it doesn’t work then you can drain and add fresh water pretty easily.
But to be honest, I am a little confused because you mentioned two different units and two different salinity level problems. Also, that you said that the cell was not producing in the beginning, but then said you don’t want it to stop working by the end.
Mathew. My apologies for the phone issues! Here is what is going on:
Swim pure plus system with a T-9 cell. It is not producing chlorine like it should. The Swim pure says that the water already has 3500 salt but when I had it tested locally it only had 2400. I now understand why cell isn’t producing because it doesn’t have enough salt but the swim pure is incorrectly showing a reading of 3500. I’ve already tried re calibrating the salt cell but it still is reading high. I am afraid that if I put enough salt to get the real salt reading up to 2700-3400 that the swim pure will shut down because it thinks the salt level is too high. I read somewhere that the salt reading on the display is calculated from the amp reading from the salt cell. On mine, the T9 is amp reading is low–only 5.17 and it should be 6.5. Very strange deal. You are probably right, the only thing I can do is keep adding salt until the physical salt is correct and see if the system continues to operate. Does that make more sense? Thanks!
Hi I need some help. Got the Aqua Trol last year worked great. This year turned on and the Check Tcell and Check salt light solid and display was hard to read. Got hold of Hayward they sent new tcell and display I installed and ran system for 24 hours. Can see display but I am still getting check Tcell and Salt light solid. Getting so frustrated as my pool guy is not helping me at all and I would have to pay if I have different guy come out and take a look.
Have you tested your water’s salinity level? If so, what is result? If your salt level is actually low, that could be a cause of the problem persisting.
My aqua rite unit will turn on the power, generating and superchlorinate LEDs (in that mode) then after maybe 30 seconds I hear relays click and all the LEDs turn off. If in normal mode it does the same with just the power and generate leds. My chlorine has dropped to almost 0 so I’m assuming that means it isn’t running. Display always reads 3400 and never turns off. Any ideas? Help would be greatly appreciated
Forgot to mention, it does this in a continuous loop, lights come on, clicks, go off. Display always reads 3400
That is a laundry list of problems. It is probably the main board, but I would check with Hayward to be sure.
I am having the same problem did you ever find out what was wrong.
My Aquarite T-9 has a no flow light on, so its not producing. Also, the volts reads 30.5, amps reads 0.00 The salt level is 3700, the instant is -0.00. I looked at the flow sensor, it looks ok to me. Any ideas on why its not producing? The system is only 2 years old.
From the article above:
My Aquarite shows check salt, check cell lights on, reading was 700. Cleaned the cell, it worked for a day. When the pump cycled back on the next day, the same symptoms check salt, check cell light on this time with no generating light on and reading 1600. Had the salt level checked by pool supply was 3200. Replaced the cell with the same type that was removed Hayward T15, 40,000 gal. After a day of what appeared to be normal operation, once the pump cycled off for the day and back on the next morning the same symptoms reappeared. The check salt, check cell lights on and generating light off. Went through all the troubleshooting diagnostics able to get the check salt, check cell lights off and the generator light on, seemed normal again. Had the salt level checked again at the pool supply still in the same range 3300. Decided to clean the pool and after backwashing the no flow light illuminated with inspect cell light on and generating light off, (first time the no flow light has ever been on during all this trouble, except for when the replacement cell was first installed and pump running during the initial start up) I understand that when the no flow light is on that the generator light will remain off. Played around with the control panel and all the lights started working as normal, only the power and generating lights were On. Once again after the pump cycles off and back on the next day the check salt, check cell lights on with the generating light off and the reading display shows 1600. Please advise.
Maybe try this more in-depth AquaRite Troubleshooting Guide can help. But if that doesn’t work then you should contact the manufacturer. Their techs know the product better than anyone else out there. Hayward Tech Support line: 908-355-7995
Ted, did you get a solution. I have a new pool and am experiencing something similar or perhaps the same. t-3 cell. I recalibrate and all is well. When variable pump either shuts off or lessens flow it seems to screw everything up. readings go lower and I believe salt level to be fine based upon tests at pool company and strips.
So my amps are reading 0 so I need a new PC board. Does it matter that my display cycle doesn’t show my t-cell number at all? It goes from the r1.45 to the salt reading.
If your board is bad then it probably is going to show some other odd values as well.
The issue should be corrected by the new board.
Could this possibly be an older Mineral Springs system? I have an original before Hayward bought them and I have no ability to set the T-cell type.
If your salt system is 2010 or earlier (I think), the control panels can not be set to accept the various Turbo Cells. When the Mineral Springs, AquaRite, SwimPure plus, and whatever else they rebranded it as were first introduced, only the TCELL15 was available.
I think the “older than 2010 uses T15 is incorrect? I have an older system with r 1.45 firmware version. Is uses the GLX Cell 5 and seems to work fine. We just bought the house and the previous owner may have replaced with the wrong cell I guess but…seems to work ok.
If you need to identify a specific pool model, check out our article titled Identify My Above Ground Pool. Or, email us at agparts@inyopools.com
I have a T-9 cell , I the check salt and inspect cell light comes on I brought the T-9 to pool store they said it’s working good also my salt levels at the pool store said good readings I reset because it shows low salt and it works fine for a bit then the lights come on again ?? why is it not working properly>?
Have you tried recalibrating you AquaRite salt levels?
I’m having the same issue. My pool started to get cloudy last night, and a little greenish. The Aquarite panel reads 1800. The pool company tested the water today, and they said my salt level was actually closer to 4000! Anyways, my check salt and inspect cell lights are both staying on, despite attempts to recalibrate the system. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Have you tried cleaning the cell? How old is the cell?
If it is older than 3 years, than it could be an issue with the cell. That means you would need a new cell.
Cleaned the cell properly and it’s back to working properly!
Nice!
i replaced main circuit board (GLX-PCB-RITE) last year and this year i put a brand T-15cell. my generator lcd is always showing 0, i cannot run diagnostics, power led is ON, no flow led flashes initially once flow is detected it would turn off. i checked my board again but nothing seems wrong to naked eye. Inspect cell led wont come on even if i remove the cell from control panel.so im concerned whether the circuit board has gone bad again. any advise
The only thing you haven’t replaced is the AquaRite Display Board. Before I go tell you to replace that too, you should probably call Hayward for some troubleshooting. They should be able to give you a confirmation what is wrong, pretty easily. Hopefully, it is a cheaper fix than a different board.
My qua Rite is reading very low salt, 300 ppm. I had it checked and it is low, but at 1500ppm. I tired to calibrate several times, but I never get the countdown. When I follow the steps it just shows 000 on the screen. It never actually starts at a higher number then starts a countdown. What do I do now?
Since your salt is too low, first, I would address that. Get out your owner’s manual, pull up the salt chart. Add the right amount of salt. No use in fiddling with the cell when you don’t have enough salt in the water for it to operate properly.
The message screen is saying “no power to cell inspect system”. I’ve checked everything I know how to check to no avail. Any suggestions. Wcives44@aol.com
What is the make and model of your salt system? Because the AquaRite does not have that error message.
when i opened my pool this year the console would light up but does not show any words such as salt level and so on. what would cause that?
That sounds like a bad AquaRite display board. We carry two options as replacements: Aqua Rite Replacement Display PCB Board (GLX-PCB-DSP) OEM version or Aftermarket version.
How to Replace an Aqua Rite Display PCB
Hi Matt,
When my cell is plugged into the control panel, the power light, generating light and super chlorinator light shut off after about 5 seconds. When I unplug the salt cell plug from the control panel, all lights stay illuminated. Thoughts other than my cell is bad? Can I fix it or if it’s dirty would it shut off???
Thanks
This is exactly what I am seeing. After working for years, suddenly I am having haze issues this year. If I flip the breaker to the system and then reset it, it works perfectly – it flashes no flow for the usual time (30 seconds?) then decides all is good and tells me it is generating… for about 5-10 seconds. Then the generating LED shuts off, and it won’t register no flow or anything else unless I reset the breaker again.
Cell is clean, flow is good.
It may be a board issue but anything I say would be a guess. I suggest you contact Hayward to see if they can point you in a solid direction. Hayward tech support can be reached at 908-355-7995
Hi. I just replaced both the board and display board on my system and the lights on the right side do not stay lit, It starts as no flow. Then went to generations then goes blank, the display reads all functions, the salt cell was replaced last. Season.
What boards did you use to replace the originals? Were they OEM replacement board or Pureline aftermarket?
Replaced with original Hayward parts
Did you ever solve this issue or determine the cause. I’m having the exact same issue.
Any resolution here? Having the same issue.
My board is telling me check salt, check cell. I have cleaned my cell well put it back on and reset my board. It said power, generating, chlorinating and then about 3 min later, check cell, check salt light came back on. Could this mean that my cell is bad? I have been looking for a cell replacement. I have Hayward T-cell -5 now and I am not finding that same cell? is there any cell compatible with my cell?
But did you actually check the salt levels of your water? if your salt levels are low the cell can’t operate. At least rule this possibility out by checking the water chemistry at the local pool store with a free test.
We carry the TCELL5
Matt,
We are having the same issue. Check salt and inspect cell light staying on. Just replaced t-15 cell, same issue again.Salt level has come up to 2200. Can we shock the pool with chorline to help? This is the first issue we have had in 6 years 😬
The Aquarite manual and the troubleshooting guide is clear when it says the unit needs 3200 ppm to operate optimally.
Unless I am missing something, it sounds like both of you need to add salt.
Hey guys! For those of you having issues after you replace the cell with low salt readings, check cell etc.
I had the same issue and couldn’t find a solution but it seems to be as simple as setting the cell type on the unit.
It was showing that I had T-3 cell when in fact I have a T-15. Once I changed the type on the panel, boom, working well.
Somehow the panel reset the type and I missed it and thought it was automatic. Almost called the company to yell at them for sending the wrong cell.
Hope this helps some of you.
And for instructions on how to reset the cell, Step 9 on this guide: How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values
Thanks, Josh.
How do you reset that?
My salt reading is reading very low 1,2 but sure there is salt reset the unit now reads 000 any ideas change the cell ??
Can you clarify your question? I am having trouble understanding it.
Hi Mat,
If the salt level by kit test is 3200 and I did not Recalibrate The Average Salt Level, what will happen? I mean, will the system work? What is the purpose of the Recalibrate The Average Salt Level?
If you turn on your AquaRite system, are there any alerts, alarms? Also, is it producing chlorine normally?
if the system is working, I would just let it work until there is an actual cause for concern, i.e. low chlorine levels, water turning green, control unit alerts.
Thanks. Everything is OK except that the salt level shown is different from salt test. Then I just let it go until there is an actual cause for concern.
My average salt reading is 2700 but the instant is -5300! What does that mean?
This is the explanation of Instant salt:
Did you just pour in new salt?
How old is your salt cell? 3-5 years is a typical age. Actually, if you get 5 years out of one, you are doing pretty good. Old, worn out salt cells will indicate erroneous high salt levels. The only way to know for sure is to test the water. TIP: Your local pool supply store will test the water for free but IMO, too often they get it wrong. Invest in a good test kit (i.e. Taylor) and do it yourself, it is very easy and will pay for itself over time. The best way to know if your system is generating chlorine is to check the voltage and current displays on the controller box front panel. Per a Hayward technician I talked to, around 25-27 volts and 4-7 amps is typical when the system is generating chlorine. Keep in mind that with the % dial set at anything less than 100%, they system will turn on and off. When it is off, and not generating chlorine, the voltage will be around 31-32 volts and the current will be zero. When you first turn on your pump and the system is up and running is the best time to check the voltage and current levels. He also told me that it is a good idea to write down the numbers when the salt cell is brand new. When the salt cell gets old and worn out the numbers (especially current will change. The current typically goes down when the cell gets old. It is a good idea to learn how to use and read the front panel display and LED’s. It tells a lot about the health of the system.
Hi ,
I just opened my pool and added salt according to the pool tech advice. I will test the water in a few days to see if I need to add more salt. My salt level is low (2000) and the check cell and salt level light is on which I’m assuming is normal because the salt is low. My question is, should the generating light be on? because its off. wondering if its off because the salt level is low or is there something wrong with my cell. Is the generating light always suppose to be on?
The generator can’t efficiently create chlorine with low salt, so the control panel does not turn the cell on. If the cell isn’t on, then the generating light will not be lit.
The short of it is, add salt.
The voltage indicator says it is 32.3 volts in the manual says it will not produce if over 30 volts what causes the high voltage and how do I repair it
Hello Rik – Unless the AquaRite is set to run at 100%, it would be normal to occasionally see a 32.3 voltage rating. For example, the Aquarite will only generate chlorine half the time the pump is running when the salt system is set on 50%. It would give you a 32.3 reading if you checked it at a time when it was not creating chlorine. Is the Aquarite still producing chlorine?
Hi there. One of my customers has a new salt system put in a a couple months back by their previous pool serivce. He never put salt in. So when she hired me I put the required amount of bags I
Of salt in her pool. The following week the reading was at 3600. CYA, PH, Alk were spot on. Then one week
Later (today) the pool was green!!! A swamp! And when I tested it with my Taylor test kit and salt meter is showed no chlorine no salt but the salt is reading 3800 on the display. Checked amps and to make sure it was programmed to the correct cell. All seems good. It’s Brand new Hayward system. Help????
Jeez. Sorry for all the typos. Guess I should have proof read this.
Make sure the Cel model is properly set in panel. T-5, T-15, etc
If the sand filter is filthy, there is not enough salt to clean.
Do a back flush then a super chlorination. Leave it alone
It will stop at 24 hrs.
Your salt level at 3800 is too high. The system will stop producing chlorine when salt levels are above 3400. The Hi Salt LED should be on when the system is running telling you the salt level is too high. You need to drain the pool some and then add water to lower the salt level.
this is really really helpful. my local rep never told me about some of these calibration procedures. i asked him “there must be a calibration that needs to happen every once in a while with these cells” and he said no not really. ugh. =(
None of my LED’s are lit, but I can read the diagnostic screen when I push the button. Just had water tested at my local pool store and FAC and TAC are at 4ppm and salt is 3500ppm.
I’m not sure if I am following your question in there.
But even the Power LED is not coming on? If your cell is creating chlorine, it seems like a display board issue.
Matthew – I am having the same issue as above. Turn the pool on, the flow indicator blinks for 2 minutes or so, then goes out like normal. The Generating light comes on and remains on for 15 – 30 seconds, then goes off. No indicator lights remain on, but I can go through all screens on the diagnostics LCD so I believe there is power. I did open it up and checked the fuse and it looked fine, no indication of it being blown. Any thoughts on how to remedy?
I would revert to my previous answer. Is chlorine still being produced? If so, it is a problem you can live with. If the cell isn’t working then you need to try cleaning/troubleshooting the cell to determine if the issue is there or lies in the control board.
I’m having this exact problem. Yes there is chlorine in the pool. The one thing I’ll add it that my power and generating light both come on for about 15 seconds while it appears the system is checking for the current salt level. At the completion of the check, which is about 15 seconds, it shows “-0” and then it clicks, and all lights turn off. This process happens every 1-3 minutes, continuously.
What is your AquaRite’s amp and volt reading? As the guide above says, it is an important thing to know for diagnosing.
current limiter out
that round black disk is current limiter squese flat sides see if power light comes on if yes current limiterbad
Hey Jay this seems to be the issue on my system when i squeezed the sides they lights came on for 15-20 secs before going out again. Do you know if you can replace just the limiter?
Yes, the current limiter can be replaced. You can find the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey.
The round disk piece separated on mine. I was able to spray CRC QD Electric Cleaner between the two pieces and press the two pieces back together. Everything lights up now. Wow, that was cheap!
Are you referring to the current limiter? If so, that part is a few dollars at most hardware stores; I would rather buy a new current limiter than risk gluing one back together.
Its a heat sync issue you can buy them yourself and if you know how to solder replace it yourself for under 50 cents unless you want to pay around $300 for aq pool guy to come out and replace your card and then make his money. Your choice.
Same here. What did you do?
Anyone find a solution for this? I have the exact same problem as Art.
We replaced the thermister. 6 dollar part. Works perfectly now.
I had the same issue and after reading this blog, I bought a 2 pack of the current limiter part # 570-1062NG and soldered on in place of the bad one, took 15m to complete, problem solved, everything work perfect.
Thanks.
Most likely your current limiter. I had the same problem, and this fixed it immediately. Symptoms were the same. It cost like $2.50 for a new one. I pulled mine out and it fell apart in my hands. Resoldered it, and works like a champ now. Soooo much better than being told you need a new control board for $350+. Even if you spend the $2.50 to try it you always have the fallback option, and only lost a few dollars. I am 90% sure this is the issue though.
My display is reading pcb, can’t reset board. Cant find this issue . can’t reset display, check salt level, check cell, which is new. I need to knkw whats the probable issur?
The PCB is the issue. You need to replace the main PCB which is the GLX-PCB-RITE for the AquaRite
Did u ever find a solution? I’m having g the same problem.
same problem here Ken did you find out whats happening with it
Sounds like a bad controller board….
Same problem!
Any fix for that issue?
Replaced both the main board twice and the display board, lights go on for 30 seconds then all goes out except for he display, pool now not generating any chlorine
Hi Jeff,
Did you ever find a solution for this problem? I’m having the same exact issue. I changed the motherboard and the LCD display and I have no lights on. Checked every power line and the fuse with a Voltage detector and all is being powered properly.
I had a new pool liner put in. Turned on my Hayward salt system and the generating light is not on. It has been 72 hrs.
Have you gotten the water tested to confirm the salt level is correct? Also, did you do any of the diagnostics checks mentioned in the article?