How To Troubleshoot a Hayward Aqua Rite

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As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.

Click Here to View Hayward AquaRite Parts Listing 


Video

Step by Step

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Step 1

No "Power" LED - Check to make sure either 120VAC or 240VAC input power is connected to the proper screw terminals at the Aqua Rite control. Verify input voltage with a voltmeter. If there is input power, the fuse may have blown. The Aqua Rite is protected by a 20 amp mini ATO fuse located on the circuit board above the cell connector.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Display Board 


Step 2

"Generating" LED Flashing - The temperature of the pool water is too high or low to operate. You can override this by switching the main switch to SUPER CHLORINATE. The Aqua Rite will run at maximum output for the remainder of the current pump cycle or 24 hours, whichever comes first.

Step 3

"No Flow" LED Illuminated - The Hayward Aqua Rite has sensed a no flow condition and has stopped generating chlorine. Check that the flow switch is plugged into the connector on the bottom of the control unit and that the wire is not cut or damaged. Make sure you have at least 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. If there is adequate flow and the LED is still on, check that the arrows on the flow switch (on top of hex) are pointing in the direction of flow.

Step 4

"Check Salt" LED Illuminated or Flashing - Check salt level in pool/spa. If the salt level is low, add salt according to the chart in the owner's manual. Before adding large quantities of salt, it is advisable to have your salt level tested by a professional or with test strips.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 


Step 5

"High Salt" LED Illuminated - With a test kit, check the salt level in pool/spa. If salt level is too high, lower salt level by draining some of the pool water out of the pool and replace with fresh water. Continue until the salt concentration is at recommended levels.

Step 6

"Inspect Cell" LED Flashing - Inspect and clean cell according to directions in the owner's manual. When done, press the "diagnostic" button for 3 seconds to stop the "Inspect Cell" LED flashing.

Click Here to Find Your AquaRite Replacement Salt Cell 

Step 7

"Inspect Cell" LED illuminated - Remove and inspect the cell for scale. If the cell is scaled, follow the directions in the owner's manual for cell cleaning. If the pool has the proper amount of salt and the "Inspect Cell" LED is still illuminated, the cell may be worn and need replacement.

Step 8

"-PCB-" displayed and all 4 red/yellow LED's illuminated. A possible Printed Circuit Board fault has been detected. Call 1-866-772-2100 for service.

Click Here to View Replacement AquaRite Main PCB 


Step 9

Causes for Little or No Chlorine Residual - The Hayward Aqua Rite switch is in the "Off" position. The Desired Output % adjustement setting is too low. The stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level is low. The filter pump time is too short (8 hours is average). The salt level is too high or too low (ideal 3200 ppm). The water temperature is warm and this causes a higher demand for chlorine. The water temperature is too low (below 50ºF) and this causes the Aqua Rite to stop generating. There is excessive scaling on the cell. Note: Any one of these problems will cause a little or no chlorine residual.

Step 10

Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual - For further diagnostics information and test, here's a link to Haywards' Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual

Comments

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(201 to 240 of 590)

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/15/2017 

Rich - Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may be close enough to your Aquatrol to help you isolate your problems. If not, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/15/2017 

Rick(1) - Check for low water pressure problems. See our guide on "How to Correct Low Water Pressure in Your Pool System". Also, check that the line on the flow sensor is not damaged or cut and that it is plugged into the control unit securely. If no luck, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/15/2017 

Anthony L - Try lifting off the Display board and reseating it again. If that doesn't work, here's a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem. Also, here is Hayward's tech support number - 866-772-2100. They may have other specific information.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/14/2017 

I have an aquatrol rj on a 24' pool. The salt level is 3100. I've tested it with a strip and recalibrated the controller. I've cleaned the cell with acid. When the pump turns on it will generate chlorine then after 15 minutes it stops generating but the generating light stays on. If I turn the dial up to 100% or put it on super chlorinate it will not turn back on. I have to turn it off then back on and it will turn on and generate. Then shut down again after 15 minutes. Cell voltage while running is 26.3 and current is 2.83. Any ideas what may cause this? It's also a tcell 5.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/14/2017 

My chlorinator flashes no flow for few hours. Then all lights go out. Please help
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 Posted: 5/14/2017 

Hello sir, We have the Aqua-rite unit. All lights seem to be lit. Water chemistry has been checked at local pool supply company. however the unit is not generating chlorine. The local pool supply company checked the cell and it turned out to be working. We've had trouble with the control board last year. It began working by removing the two legs of the stand that support the display board and jiggling it until the display was reading correctly and that worked for the rest of the season. It's not generating chlorine now even though all the lights indicate that it is. Can you help?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/10/2017 

B barber - Your SCG system may be operating too close to the low-temperature shutoff - 50 degrees. Output is scaled back to 20% at 60 degrees and output stops at 50 degrees.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/10/2017 

Tmartin - The Salt and Inspect Cell LEDs will be ON if the control is set for the wrong Turbo Cell or the cell is unplugged. Also, try resetting the Inspect Cell LED by pressing and holding the Diagnostics button until the LED goes out *about 3-5 seconds.
 Reply

 Posted: 5/9/2017 

Salt level is 3100 temperature of water 52 no lights flashing all seem good except it is not generating chlorine, why is this?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/9/2017 

I have a Hayward Goldline Aqua Rite Salt Generator. The display is showing power but check salt and inspect cell lights are illuminated. We have cleaned cell and reinstalled and reset board but those two lights illuminate again. We have done these steps three times with same results. We know the pool has salt so that is not the problem. Any suggestions?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/8/2017 

StanFL - Make sure the display cell size matches the actually installed cell size. See our guide on "How To Change the Displayed Cell Size on an Aqua Rite SCG". If you haven't cleaned your cell recently, try cleaning it with acid. See our guide on " How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell”.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/8/2017 

kdtx - Make sure your displayed cell size matches your installed cell size. Recalibrate your salt level. Have a pool store independently check your salt level. On the pump, check the start capacitor to see if it needs to be replaced.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/8/2017 

GC - It sounds like your main PC Board may have failed. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It has some specific test to help isolate your problem.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/8/2017 

Terry - According to page 3 of the Hayward Pro Logic Diagnostics Manual, a "no power cell 2" message means that you have to replace your main Printed Circuit Board (PCB).
 Reply

 Posted: 5/6/2017 

TCell went bad and replaced; perfect pool for a week or two and then main board went bad per haywood tech-line (40 volts and 10 amps showing and wouldn't reset). Replaced board, timer working but salt level is now increasing. Also now polaris pump not starting. Any ideas?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/6/2017 

my Aqua Lite panel on when i turn on pump controller and 'no flow' LED light on. after <1min, 'no flow' light off and 'generating' light on. during all these, 'power' light won't come out. 'generating' light stay on for <1min, then off again. my unit is not generating CL. how to fix it?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/6/2017 

I'm getting a message: no power cell 2. Any ideas on what the fix?
 Reply

 Posted: 5/4/2017 

When I turn my AquaRite on, it reads the correct salt measurement for a minute or two, and then switches to "HI". I checked the salt in the pool, and the initial measurement, about 2600, was right, but it doesn't hold it and with "HI" salt, it doesn't make chlorine.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/2/2017 

GPerry - Tou may have a bad main printed circuit board like Dave below. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem further. Or give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their technical staff should be able to analyze your problem.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 5/1/2017 

Dave - It sounds like your main PCB has failed. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem further. Or give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their technical staff should be able to analyze your problem.


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 Posted: 4/30/2017 

My unit comes on when I turn the power on. However, the green LEDs go out, after approximately 5 seconds. No alarms. The reading is a constant 2800 for the salt level. I have added salt, no change. I cleaned the cell with acid, as I've always done. Can anyone help?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/27/2017 

Salt cell comes on normally when started with Green Power light solid and red flow light flashing. After flow light times out, the green generating light turns on normally. After 10-30 seconds both power and generating turn off. The display also starts normally and always remains on. After 5-10 minutes, the power and generating lights come back on but again only for 5-30 seconds. Repeat. I have checked all connections and inspected the PCB and see no burn marks or issues. All clean. The 20 amp fuse looks fine as well.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/27/2017 

Anonymous (fuse) - It depends on how far the power surge traveled. If you see burn marks around other components, just resoldering the fuse housing won't solve your problem. But if the surge was restricted to the fuse housing, I'd try resoldering it. That's the cheapest solution.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 4/26/2017 

My lights would not come on so I removed the cover to check the fuse. It is burned and melted on top. when I removed it, the housing came off as well. can this be soldered back on and will it be operational?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/26/2017 

Kelly - This is often an indication that your main PCB is failing. Check the back of the board to see if that are burn marks around any of the components. Some customers have replaced these components themselves (resoldered) but most replace the board. Also, check that your cables are plugged in all the way and are not cracked or damaged.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/25/2017 

The power light and the display are the only things coming on on my Aqua Rite. Nothing with any of the other lights. Thoughts?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/24/2017 

Check the flow sensor wire. It may be cut, frayed or nibbled on by a rodent. If all looks good, may need to purchase a new flow sensor if red flow sensor light does not go off.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/21/2017 

Gia S - It sounds like you have a defective main PCB. Check the backside of the PCB for burn marks around the components from a possible electrical surge like lightning. This would indicate component failure and would require a new board.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/19/2017 

I think the circuit board may be defective for the Aqua Rite- but it does not say PCB. There are no lights but when you hold down the diagnostic button for 3 seconds the power light comes on and so does the generating light- it then shuts off again after 30 seconds. Is the cause a faulty circuit board or something else?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/17/2017 

Anonymous (cloudy water) - When the SCG is generating chlorine, you will see a cloud of very small bubbles at the end of the SCG and coming out the returns jets for a short distance. If your whole pool is turning cloudy, you have another problem, but I don't know why that would be related to your SCG. Are your pool chemicals balanced? Check your pool's phosphate level.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/17/2017 

Anonymous (flow sensor) - You may have a bad main PC Board. Look at the back of the board for burn marks around the PCB components. Call Hayward at 866-772-2100 to confirm this before you buy a replacement board.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/16/2017 

MJKKB2 - I'd suggest calling Hayward direct on this issue at 866-772-2100. You may need a new control board but I'd check with them first.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 4/15/2017 

I notice when the pool first starts up around 12 noon - the Aqua Rite is generating - and the three return lines to the pool are clear (water temp ~ 78 F). In the afternoon - with the solar heater the temp increases around 5 degrees (83 F) - and I notice that the returns to the pool are cloudy. If I turn the Aqua Rite off - the cloudy return immediately stops - so I know its the Aqua Rite causing this ... After the pump shuts off at the end of the day - the cloudy water slowly becomes clear again.

What causes this - and what is in the water return that makes it look cloudy?

 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/15/2017 

anonymous (check salt) - Check that your actual cell type is the same as your displayed cell type. Then, clean your cell even if it looks clean. Then reset your average salt level. See our guides for instructions for each of these.
 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 4/12/2017 

I changed the flow senser. It blinked no flow when I first turned it on but now after 1 day with it seemed to be working no lights are lite up at all and its reading 4100. I turned off pool pump and circuit goes off. When I turn it back on no flow blinks then goes off and no other lights light up.
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/11/2017 

awdusvi - Check that your cable connections are tight. Try lifting off and replacing the Display PCB on the main PCB. Then try cleaning the salt generation cell. There is a temperature sensor just inside the sell that may be covered with scale. Check that it is not damaged.
 Reply

 Posted: 4/11/2017 

I have the AquaPlus panel on my system and after opening up this season it does not allow me to access any menus. All seems to be working fine as far as the filter, reading temp, flow, salt, chlorine etc...It even retained my previous year's timer settings. I am able to scroll through various menus (default, settings, timers, config) but cannot access any of them by pressing <> or +/-. The panel is less than 2 years old.
Any ideas or directions for troubleshooting would be appreciated.

 Reply

Anonymous  Posted: 4/10/2017 

When I turn on my system it says it's generating but after about 90 seconds the check salt and inspect cell lights come on. I've inspected the cell and it's clear. My salt level is actually a little high (3700), but the system says it's 2200. Any thoughts?
 Reply

 Posted: 4/8/2017 

I am getting a cold message although the readout shows 81, replaced the flow switch but still getting the message water turns green! Any help what causes this?
 Reply

InyoPools Product Specialist  Posted: 4/8/2017 

Jon G - It sounds like the symptoms of a bad Current Limiter on the Main PC Board - the flat disc at the top right side of the board. You would see burn marks around the disc. Here is the link to the Current Limiter, #570-1062-ND from Digikey. If you can't find someone to solder in a new one, you may have to buy a new Main PC Board. Give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100 to confirm this before you buy a new board.


 Reply