As with any automatic salt chlorine generator, tune-ups are needed from time to time. Troubleshooting a Hayward Aqua Rite can be quick and simple. By following the steps listed below, the Aqua Rite can successfully be restored.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/8/2017
JR - Take a look at our guide on "How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values" in particular steps 10 and 12. If that doesn't help, and your cell is approaching 5 years of age, you may need a need cell.Reply
Jon G Posted: 4/5/2017
Hi - just replaced by Turbo Cell (t-3), but I seem to be having a problem with my controller. I've had my water tested by my local pool shop, so I know there is sufficient salt and that the water temperature is okay (78 degrees F). When I start the pump, the Power and Generating indicators light up once the water gets flowing. After 20 seconds or so, both lights will click off. After several minutes, it will cycle through this again (both lights come back on for 20 seconds or so, then turn off for several minutes). I ran through the diagnostics on the controller - the cell voltage will build up to 27V or so, but then it drops rapidly to 2-4V and that's when the Power and Generating lights click off. It will gradually climb up again, and Power and Generating lights will alight.Cell current remains at 0.00 amps - no change here at all. Desired Output is consistent with the knob position, e.g. 76p. Instant salinity is also registering -0.00 at all times. Product name is AL-1 (I'm not the original owner of this pool - not sure what else may have been done here). Software revision is r 1.55. Chlorinator cell type is T-3 (I confirmed with the instructions on the new cell once I received it last week).
Any ideas? Thanks...
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JR Posted: 4/5/2017
How do I know if my cell or the board is bad? I've added the recommended salt, cleaned the cell, etc and the readout stays on 1900 and it still says, inspect cell, and check salt.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/4/2017
Carmel - It sounds like your main PCB has failed. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem further. Or give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their technical staff should be able to analyze your problem.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 4/4/2017
HomeOwner - Make sure all your cable connections are tight. Then try reseating the Display board - lift it off and back on the main PCB. Then check for other possible burned components on the main PCB. If the thermistor was bad, you may have other failed or failing components. If no solution, give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100.Reply
Camel Posted: 4/3/2017
Power indicator green, digital readout salt level 3200, all appears in order. When switched to chlorinate, generating light went green. After about 15 seconds all lights went off except digital readout. Turned system off and restarted and same problem. Is there any way to run diagnostic with the digital readout?Reply
HomeOwner Posted: 3/30/2017
The letter "L" is displayed on the screen. I replaced the thermistor a few months ago and everything seemed fine until now. Any suggestions? Thank you.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/23/2017
anonymous (no flow) - Operationally, the no flow light will come on whenever you have insufficient water flow in your system to run the SCG. If shuts off. One common cause for low flow is a clogged impeller. See our guide on " How To Clean Out a Pool Pump Impeller".Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/23/2017
Ginab - If you have just installed this SCG, check that the jumpers on terminal TB1 are configured for the right supply voltage, 120 or 240 VAC. Inspect the main PCB for any damaged or burnt components. If so, the main PCB may have to be replaced. Try removing and reseating the DSP board onto the main PCB to make sure all pins are making contact. If none of this works, you may have to take the control box in for a full diagnostics checkup.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 3/22/2017
My pool pump stopped and after checking I found a red "no flow" error light on my salt generator. The pump restarted after about 15 minutes and the light had turned off and the green generating light was lit. Any idea what's causing this? It's happened a couple of times today.Reply
Ginab Posted: 3/22/2017
Any idea why none of my LED's are lit up? Pool is on and running, display shows all my readings we just have no lighs lit up at all??Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/20/2017
Bobby – I don’t think there is a problem with the AquaRite SCG being on when the pump is off. However, the generating chlorine light should not be on when the pump is off.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/20/2017
Monso – Check to make sure the plugs to the control unit are in all the way. If they are tight, you may need a new main PCB.Reply
Bobby Posted: 3/17/2017
I originally set my Aqua Rite running 110v. No reason, just picked that voltage. Everything worked fine, except the unit would still have power when the pump wasn't running. According to the manual, it states it should turn off. Not sure why, probably just a precaution, but that bothered me.I rewired to 220v, and power on/off with Pump was successful... but now I began to have all the issues I read on other posts (Inspect cell, always generating salt, etc). I went back to 110v, and it works great! I dunno!? I'll go with this and leave the power on I guess.
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monso Posted: 3/16/2017
power light and generating light work sometime and dont work sometimesReply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/10/2017
Dave - Check that the connections from the cell to the control units are secure. Then remove and clean your cell in an acid solution. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell". After you replace the cleaned cell, remember to press the diagnostic button next to the display for 3 seconds to reset the countdown timer.Reply
Dave Posted: 3/8/2017
I have an Aqua Rite salt water system. I shows low salt level so it will not generate. I have checked the salt and it at a good level. What would cause it to show low salt?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 3/6/2017
SD Al - This is usually an indication that your cell has to be cleaned or replaced. If you haven't cleaned your cell in the last year, try cleaning the cell first. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell". If that doesn't work you probably need a new cell.Reply
SD Al Posted: 3/4/2017
Low Salt red light alarm on (continuous). Just had water sample tested at 2 separate stores and each report pool salt is High. Also have Inspect Cell red light alarm on (continuous).Any thoughts? Wondering if it's time to replace the Chlorination Cell?
Thanks.
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 1/6/2017
Jared - See our guide on "How To Know When a Salt Cell is Bad - General". It will give you many of the things to look for when your system is not producing chlorine. If you haven't cleaned your cell in the last 1-2 years, that's a good place to start.Reply
Jared Posted: 1/4/2017
Hi,My Aquarite control pad shows everything is functioning normally but not chlorine is bring produced. No salt is being used; chlorine levels are low.
Is it a bad salt cell? Any way to verify first before replacing?
Thanks!
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InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 12/19/2016
Milan - If you bought the cell from us, please give us a call at 407 834-2200 and we will help you with the warranty.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 12/19/2016
jmmymak - It sounds like your cell needs to be cleaned or replaced. See our guide on "How To Clean a Hayward AquaRite Turbo Cell".Reply
Milan Posted: 12/16/2016
I have a 5 months old Hayward SWP15 and looks like the T-cell 15 is prematurely losing it's life. Chlorination rate is at 100P since installed. Lately, the current will drop down to zero after 30-35 mins and will not come back up until the power is cycled. The cell is literally clean like new. System light indicators are normal, water temp is within range and water chemistry is properly maintained and dialed in. Attempted to call in for warranty service but turned out very frustrating, like a ping-pong ball :-(Reply
jmmymak Posted: 12/12/2016
My salt reading on the aqua-rite is 900, and the check cell and low salt lights are illuminated. However, the actual salt reading, according to my technician, is 3500+ I've recalibrated the system numerous times, but the level reading stays around 900.Reply
GaryT Posted: 11/25/2016
Thanks so much for the insight and recommendations. I will check both the polarity and cell. Thanks again!Reply
GAryT Posted: 11/21/2016
I should add to the post below that the Power LED and Generating LED are both green. I have noticed that when the chlorine is set to below 50, the voltage reads 31.5 and the amps read 0.0 indicating (according to the manual) that the system is NOT generating chlorine. However, when I turn the chlorine setting to above 50, I hear a click and the voltage drops to 26.2 and amps come up to 5.12 indicating the system is generating chlorine (per the manual). In all of the cases I just described, the Power LED and Generating LED are both green. No other LED's are illuminated. Any suggestions ?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 11/21/2016
GaryT - If your Desired Output % is set between 10 and 20%, the SCG will only operate for that % of the pump's on time which could be around an hour for an 8 hour run time. Also, the cell reverses polarity periodically. Check the amperage for each polarity. To switch polarities manually, cycle the Main Switch from AUTO to OFF to AUTO. If the amps for either polarity is 0, you may need to replace the main PCB. Finally, you may just need to clean the cell even if it looks clean.Reply
GaryT Posted: 11/20/2016
Hello. I've been having a problem with low Chlorine. All LED"s are "on" as if the unit is performing as it should. Salt reading is 3000. After investigating the problem, I discovered that my amperage is at the correct level (about 5.1) for about 1 hour of operation, then it will drop to 0.0. Do you have any suggestions on where the problem may exist ?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/31/2016
High chlorine - I'd lower the desired CL level to 20% or even turn it off for a couple of days. Your high chlorine level should burn off fairly quickly. Then try maintaining your CL level at 20% to see if that controls your CL.Reply
Anonymous Posted: 10/30/2016
Our chlorine level has been consistently very high over the past two months and we cannot get it under control. We're only running the system for 6 hours a day since no one is swimming in fall. The chlorine setting is down to 40 and we usually run it between 45 and 50. And there has been no significant change in water level. I also added the chemical to lower chlorine which slightly lowered it for a few days then it shot back up. Any ideas as to how to get it under control?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/24/2016
Matt - It sounds like your main PCB has failed. Here is a link to Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. It may help you isolate your problem further. Or give Hayward a call at 866-772-2100. Their technical staff should be able to analyze your problem.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/24/2016
Pat - Thank you for your feedback. It will help other people.Reply
Matt Posted: 10/22/2016
All lights on the control panel are illuminated on both auto and super chlorinate settings, how do I know if the unit is functioning?Reply
Pat Posted: 10/20/2016
Just a follow up to dropping salt readings. I called Hayward, they walked me through an AMP check. Amps too low, T-3 gone bad. $ years old. Changed the cell. Back up and running. But, I had added salt thinking it was low. Sitting at 4000 ppm, unit shuts down, too much salt. lol. I was able to trick the unit by making it think its a T-5 cell. It is running ok until I can drain some water.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/20/2016
Nutria - Cells should last more like 5 years unless you have had trouble maintaining your pool's chemical levels. Make sure the cell's cable is plugged into the control box socket all the way. Then clean your cell with a muriatic acid solution. Check that your displayed cell type matches your installed cell type, t15. Reset your average salt level. See our guides for each of these procedures. If none of this works, you may need a new cell.Reply
Nutria Posted: 10/18/2016
I have a 2 year old Hayward t15 turbo cell. Has been working fine till last week when it shut off for zero salt. Salt is actually at 3000 ppm. Cell looks pristine on inspection. Has my cell gone bad?Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/17/2016
saabman - Sounds like you may have the same problem that several other people have had - a bad Current Limiter (CL) on the main PCB. See below for comments to and from Jl, Anomymous, Toucando and 68GS(Roy).Reply
saabman Posted: 10/17/2016
after having no power for 5 days following the hurricane, my generator has a functioning display (LCD) but the power button will only stay lit for a couple seconds. the generating light will stay on slightly longer. pool is green and getting greener :( any thoughts.Reply
InyoPools Product Specialist Dennis R. Posted: 10/1/2016
5 low - I haven't seen that display either. Is it maybe 'S low' for salt low? When you replaced your T-cell, did you set the displayed T-cell to t-3 so that it matches the installed T-cell? And did you reset the average salt level? See pages 4 and 5 in Hayward's Aqua Rite Diagnostics Manual. This guide also provides a number of diagnostic tests to help further isolate your problem.Reply